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Topic: drive belt (Read 1864 times) |
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pedropedro
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hi..tried searching couldnt find info relating to replacing drive belt 2.3 with a/c it looks straightforward but suspect may be a trick or two...whats the bset way to replace and any helpful tricks appreciated ? TKS
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Highlander
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #1 on: May 16th, 2009, 2:50pm » |
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Hi, I usually just pull the belt up, hold the tensioner in place then slip it off, if you can get someone else to help you can put the new one back on at the same time. A spanner or ratchet on the tensioner bolt will make it easier to move to get the belts on/off
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:I give up ! Too much for an old boy! |
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pedropedro
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #2 on: May 16th, 2009, 3:06pm » |
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ok tks...you make it sound easy !
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Snoopy
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #3 on: May 16th, 2009, 3:53pm » |
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It is when you have three hands... really
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Tompion
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #4 on: May 16th, 2009, 8:11pm » |
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There’s a vacant bolt hole in the front of the engine just above the tensioner. Screw in a bolt or just push in a bit of rod. Cut a wooden wedge & lay it on the tensioner in the gap between the bolt & tensioner. When you pull up on the belt the wedge will slide down and hold the tensioner down.
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ABS multiplug wheel sensor pins MK IV or MK 20
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pedropedro
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #5 on: May 16th, 2009, 9:12pm » |
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ok think ive got that! just had a look and can see what youre getting at..would be useful to see a pic but i think i know what youre saying just need to wedge the tensioner down somehow when pulling up on belt so some wedge would do the business//tks
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Tompion
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #6 on: May 16th, 2009, 10:49pm » |
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I took a picture last time I did it, but can’t find it. This is a mock up, I think I used this hole, but it may have been the next one down:
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ABS multiplug wheel sensor pins MK IV or MK 20
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pedropedro
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #7 on: May 17th, 2009, 7:37am » |
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that was good of you to do that pic tks appreciated....i figured something like that not easy to explain ...will do next week end..really appreciate that picture....tks
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pedropedro
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #8 on: May 17th, 2009, 1:15pm » |
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the new belt is arriving next week & I wanted to try removing belt before it turns up ....the dims of the wedge are fairly important ...made x3 before found one that worked well. pull belt up, let wedge drop and slide in upper bolt secures wedge then pull belt right to limit of tensioner and slip second bolt in lower hole ..only can do that with right dims re the wedge but worth it as can keep tensioner at limit works a treat ..belt comes off easily with no sweat so tks tompion p.s. also tks for the abs solder issue tip on the motor connections...drilled into case, soldered, fixed a long standing problem
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Tompion
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #9 on: May 17th, 2009, 7:42pm » |
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Glad to be of help , especially the controller. I’ve looked at 8 controllers with the 1095 fault code & soldering the pins cured them all. Dave
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Highlander
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #10 on: May 17th, 2009, 7:56pm » |
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Whats the dimensions? That would be a handy addition to the tool box
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:I give up ! Too much for an old boy! |
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pedropedro
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #11 on: May 17th, 2009, 9:05pm » |
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I used a 90 degree triangle 45mm and 130 mm on the sides not opposite the 90 degrees if that makes sense....problem i had initially was not being able to get tensioner to stay fully down against end stop. i found if i made wedge so when belt fully pulled the lower hole was just exposed could slip a bolt in to keep it there used the angle side of wedge against the bolts when tensioner is against stop the belt is completely loose and can be easily slipped off such a neat idea ..that's why i asked if anyone had any tricks to pass on..glad I did!
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pedropedro
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #12 on: May 24th, 2009, 9:49am » |
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just to say changed the belt yesterday....wasnt a big deal thanks to the wedge . maybe 20 mins for the complete job. Glad i did...the inside had cracks full depth to the webbing right across width of belt in some places. Only obvious when belt is reversed . what made me change was seeing very small fissures/ cracks only a few mm long on the outside, sort of scattered over the surface of the belt. just passing on, as belt only costs £12 and the cost and / or incovenience of getting towed home from wherever is enormous my 2.3 had done 110k miles
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tlundkvi
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #13 on: Sep 20th, 2009, 4:58pm » |
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Really nice tricks, shame it looks though as the 24V doesn't have the hole! But I have a related question, quoting the drivebelts (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/drivebelt.htm) guide: Quote:Once the AC belt is removed, the left hand tensioner is released and the longer drive belt removed. |
| Quote:The tensioner tends to 'lock' in its position and some effort may be required to make the initial movement. |
| Tried to release both tensioners without touching the belts on my 24V to try. I will replace the longer belt, the shorter one looks quite new and flawless. The tensioner for the AC belt slackened up with almost finger power, but the second one , the larger (that is of the same style as the one wedged in the above posts) did not move at all (used a normal 10-12" spanner). It was really stuck, so the whole car rocked when trying to slacken it. So I started to think about the tips given in the guide. Will the bigger tensioner be stuck like that until the shorter belt is removed (with all logic they should be completely unrelated), or do I just have to get a longer extension to get more power to it? Another problem is a large bar is usually wide too and there's not plenty of room unless the fans are detached. Grateful for advice, luckily the longer belt is still in working order, but on it's way out And you may guess do I regret now I didn't have the belts replaced when the alternator was replaced last fall.
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tlundkvi
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Re: drive belt
« Reply #14 on: Sep 20th, 2009, 7:16pm » |
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Seems I solved the problem myself. I had already sprayed some rust flash on it, tried again few hours later with the spanner extended with an adjustable spanner. Now the tensioner moves really easily, guess it was a combination of locking and lack of leverage.
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