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Topic: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold (Read 19051 times) |
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Jonnycab
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #20 on: Jun 17th, 2008, 3:31am » |
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Not sure that it really matters what glue you use, as it probably isn't needed.....the fittings are an extremely tight fit & are pretty hard to press in....but once in properly, then they obviously aren't going to come out again 
An extra bond of high temp glue will probably make 'em stick in even better than the original Ford factory fit & less chance breaking the seal & spinning the brass nuts when trying to remove a sensor 
The fittings I removed had no evidence of glue on them, so they are obviously just pressed in at the Ford factory without any kind of adhesive
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #21 on: Jun 11th, 2013, 9:02pm » |
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Know this is an old topic but currently modifying a 2.3 Galaxy Manifold to fit a 2.3 Scorpio and have a few questions:
What are the 'O' rings? I've removed all the brass fittings from the old manifold to fit in new, but could see no 'O' rings.....do they fit around all the brass fittings?
What glue was used by you guys? The links sadly don't work anymore that highlighted them.
Will the coolant pipe brass fitting hold OK with just glue? That's the only fitment I'm worried about getting to fit to be honest!
Many Thanks in advance guys
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Tompion
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1997 2.3 Ultima estate.
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #23 on: Jun 12th, 2013, 10:17pm » |
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The 2 temp sensor fittings & the coolant pipe stub have grooves turned in them that the O rings fit into.
The coolant pipe stub has a fine saw tooth tapered thread. Whether or not it will cut its own thread I don’t know, some of them have slots in the flange so they can be screwed in with a C spanner. There are a lot of special loctites, I wouldn’t be surprised if one of the range was used.
The 3 inserts for the stat housing would worry me most since the bolts are trying to pull them out, especially as a sudden loss of coolant on the 2.3 can result in a cracked head. It looks to me as though the originals were put in hot so the plastic melted around the knurl.
If I remember correctly you could use longer bolts on 2 of them & get a nut behind the housing if you wanted. Undoing the stat cover puts a lot of stress on the housing if the bolts are corroded, fitting stainless bolts may help.
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #24 on: Jun 13th, 2013, 1:01am » |
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Tompian, now it's making more sense....I know the 'o'o rings you mean....was thinking the thermostat housing brass fittings should have a 'O' ring hence my confusion!
Will place the brass fittings in with my loctite all purpose epoxy and take it from there. Will probably allow it to set then clean up the thermostat bolts and have the thermostat and housing in place before refitting the manifold. 
Thanks for your input
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Jonnycab
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Former owner of 2.3 Ultima Facelift saloon
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #25 on: Jun 14th, 2013, 3:26am » |
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The glue I used was called 'Serious Glue' made by Evo Stik. Not sure if it's still available though 
I've got a couple of old Galaxy manifolds (& a load of brass inserts) in the shed that I've been meaning to convert for a couple of years now, but never seem to have the time to do it 
I was thinking though, that a thin smear of good old silicone clear gasket sealer would probably do the job better than any kind of glue as it's very strong, & extremely heat resistant.
This old post has inspired me to get to work on converting these manifolds....so should have them for sale soon
Scrappydoo, be careful, that Unibond stuff you bought says it's heat resistant up to 150 degrees C, but that doesn't mean it can withstand a constant heat of 150 degrees C. Also, it may not be resistant to antifreeze
The Evo Stik 'Serious glue' that I used was heat resistant up to 260 degrees C & although it didn't state it was resistant to antifreeze, it seemed to do the job.
But five years on from this post starting, I am inclined to use silicone gasket sealer, as I said before, it's strong & very heat resistant....but more importantly, it's antifreeze proof
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Simmo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #26 on: Jun 14th, 2013, 5:29am » |
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JC. If you do refurbish these units could you provide some photos and a write up please. Mike.
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Jonnycab
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #27 on: Jun 16th, 2013, 1:50am » |
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Aw...do I have to ? ....'spose I could
Not much to it really though, just remove fittings from old manifold & press them into the new manifold with a G/F-clamp, with a small block of wood on the other side between clamp & manifold to prevent damage to manifold. It's not really rocket science
Could give the whole manifold a clean as well, outside & in with carb cleaner & hose. I'm thinking I may use the dishwasher for this job though....just don't tell the wife 
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Simmo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #28 on: Jun 16th, 2013, 7:48am » |
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on Jun 16th, 2013, 1:50am, Jonnycab wrote:Aw...do I have to ? ....'spose I could
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Now look......we've got the JC air removal info so let's have another JC gem for all time!.  .....as for telling the wife.  ....as if......provided......... Mike.
UPDATE. Just got your PM. Be great to see you if you can
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #29 on: Jun 21st, 2013, 4:19pm » |
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on Jun 12th, 2013, 10:17pm, Tompion wrote:The 2 temp sensor fittings & the coolant pipe stub have grooves turned in them that the O rings fit into.
The coolant pipe stub has a fine saw tooth tapered thread. Whether or not it will cut its own thread I don’t know, some of them have slots in the flange so they can be screwed in with a C spanner. There are a lot of special loctites, I wouldn’t be surprised if one of the range was used.
The 3 inserts for the stat housing would worry me most since the bolts are trying to pull them out, especially as a sudden loss of coolant on the 2.3 can result in a cracked head. It looks to me as though the originals were put in hot so the plastic melted around the knurl.
If I remember correctly you could use longer bolts on 2 of them & get a nut behind the housing if you wanted. Undoing the stat cover puts a lot of stress on the housing if the bolts are corroded, fitting stainless bolts may help.
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Couldn't find the "fine tapered thread" on the coolant pipe stub so glued the end and then fitted it and seems strong. Also glued the sensor fixings and they also seem fine but the thermostat housing bolt fixings when trying to bolt thermostat housing they started to spin.
Wonder if the glue I'm using it appropriate as it only seems to semi-set i.e. the glue on the housing threads is still moist even though it's been left for days!
Been looking at Jonny Cab's recommendation of "Serious Glue" from evostik but it claims 130c and not 260c as mentioned so doesn't seem on the face of it to be any "better" that the stuff I'm using, it also only comes in 5ml so would possibly need more than the one of it. 
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Tompion
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1997 2.3 Ultima estate.
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #30 on: Jun 24th, 2013, 4:19pm » |
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The thread on mine is about .5mm pitch (50tpi), the temp inserts use much the same but have to be pushed in due to them having the hexagon recessed into the plastic, the ratchet shape of the thread helping resist removal.
As you can see mine has slots for a C spanner, is threaded & has a groove behind the thread for an O ring.
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #31 on: Jun 25th, 2013, 12:52am » |
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Tompian, thanks for the insight.....pretty sure my coolant pipe didn't have such a thread but it seems so "held" in place now don't want to remove it really to check! Just at a loss to know what to use to hold the thermostat inserts in place. 
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Jonnycab
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Former owner of 2.3 Ultima Facelift saloon
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #32 on: Jun 25th, 2013, 9:25am » |
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on Jun 21st, 2013, 4:19pm, scrappydoo wrote:
Been looking at Jonny Cab's recommendation of "Serious Glue" from evostik but it claims 130c and not 260c as mentioned. |
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Sorry, my mistake, got my centigrade & fahrenheits mixed up
P.S... you can get it in 33g tubes
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #33 on: Jun 25th, 2013, 12:04pm » |
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on Jun 25th, 2013, 9:25am, Jonnycab wrote:
Sorry, my mistake, got my centigrade & fahrenheits mixed up
P.S... you can get it in 33g tubes |
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Don't worry, does that actually set solid? The stuff I bought doesn't hence it's not holding the threads in place for long!
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Jonnycab
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #34 on: Jun 25th, 2013, 1:27pm » |
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It does set very hard, but still has flexibility, so can still give a little under strain so as not to fracture
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #35 on: Jun 25th, 2013, 7:46pm » |
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Will be getting some serious glue from HALFORDS tomorrow!
SCAPPYDOO PLEASE READ THIS
Snoopy
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #36 on: Jul 3rd, 2013, 3:09pm » |
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Firstly, Snoopy many apologies on my faux pas!
Secondly job now completed, the only thread I managed to get to stick in the end even with serious glue was the one that you can't get a bolt through. So the other two I've ended up using longer bolts with washers and a nut to hold it in place.
I've gone for the start up and the bloomin' thing is running like a bag of sh*te and it seems there's a leak (hissing sound) coming from from where the EGR valve goes to the part that transfers any exhaust gas to the exhaust manifold.
I know I did loosen and remove the bolts on this to make movement of the pipe where it goes to the inlet manifold easier. I did refit and tighten them though but on checking n I noticed there was no gasket...not sure if there was one or not so I re-used the gasket from the EGR blank off that was on the galaxy manifold which fitted like a dream.
Started it again and still running the same...i.e. sh*te and still a bit of a hissing sound coming from it.
Have scanned it but no codes found, wondering what to try next!
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Tompion
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1997 2.3 Ultima estate.
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #37 on: Jul 3rd, 2013, 3:40pm » |
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You could spray around the manifold with WD40 – the revs will change if you find the leak or stick a bit of tube to your ear like a stethoscope & try & detect the source of the hiss. I’d just pull off each hose in turn & put my thumb over the hole to try & find the culprit.
Causes I’ve read on here include trapping a pipe under the inlet air control valve or disturbing the engine breather located behind the exhaust manifold – it’s the other end of the metal pipe that runs around the back of the engine & connects to the inlet manifold with a right angle rubber boot.
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #38 on: Jul 3rd, 2013, 4:11pm » |
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Have tried the WD40 trick but no sucess, the hissing is definitely coming from the EGR valve area. Does the EGR valve have a gasket between the pipe going to it?
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Tompion
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #39 on: Jul 3rd, 2013, 5:31pm » |
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The 24v EGR is shown as having a gasket so I assume the 16v has. If you haven't disconnected it it seams strange if it's that.
The engine breather (PCV) isn’t far below the EGR, have you tried plugging the engine breather stub at the inlet manifold end to rule it out.
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