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Topic: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold (Read 19049 times) |
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #40 on: Jul 3rd, 2013, 5:35pm » |
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Tompian, I did disconnect it to enable easier movement of the EGR pipe where it enters the inlet manifold.
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #42 on: Jul 3rd, 2013, 6:16pm » |
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on Jul 3rd, 2013, 6:04pm, Tompion wrote:Did it enable easier movement? as there's also a bracket at the back of the engine. |
| No it didn't really make movement easier but I still managed to move the pipe enough to make removal of inlet easier. Might do a compression test tomorrow just to rule any of the cylinders out.
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TiberiuS
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #43 on: Jul 3rd, 2013, 11:43pm » |
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scrappydoo: It sounds very much like a vacuum leak if you've got a hiss, usually any misfire caused by a vacuum leak not bad enough to actually stall the engine starts to smooth out if you give it a bit of throttle. Otherwise, does all the wiring you disturbed look OK? Multiplugs properly seated on both coilpacks and all 4 injectors? Does the wiring around the rear of the cylinder head and near the fuel rail look OK? MAF plug seated correctly?
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Jonnycab
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #44 on: Jul 7th, 2013, 2:43am » |
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There is a gasket between the manifold outlet & EGR pipe, if memory serves me correct, it's red with one big hole in the middle & two smaller (bolt) holes either side (No 6 in Tompions last link). I re-used the old gasket & just spread a bit of 'Hermetite Red' gasket sealer on both sides of it & never had any vacuum leak problems Hope this helps
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #45 on: Sep 11th, 2013, 6:07pm » |
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A belated update and sorry for the boring length of the post! Discovered hiss to be coming from the rubber end of the breather pipe that fits into the side of the engine under the exhaust manifold. Had to remove exhaust manifold to get at it and found it off though it was split so new one ordered and fitted....before refitting I examined the exhaust manifold and found it to have a crack in it....strange as no noticable noise coming from it only noticed out of chance. Managed to find a cheap replacement and refitted everything including new gaskets for manifold to head and manifold to cat. Got car on the road and running brilliantly for last few weeks except for a rattle from the cat clamp/bracket and the temp gauge now goes from the middle to low randomly. For the exhaust rattle I don't think I've fitted the bracket proiperly but I was struggling to get the bolt that tightens the clamp/bracket to adjust properly. Anyone got any tips? For the temp gauge issue I'm thinking the sender as this was potentially affected when the inlet manfold was replaced. Just to add insult to injury when taking it for a quick spin the other day the ABVS/Traction Light came on and later the car started running like a right bag of s***e! On investigation with a scanner it came back P0340 cam sensor and C1095 ABS pump. Examined cam sensor and found the wires going to the sensor wiring plug had come adrift.....had already completed a repair to the wiring plug with some araldite but this had come astray as it was hot so have affected a temporary repair with some cable ties. As for ABS pump this is obviously the same code that comes up when the controller circuit board requires soldering but I have already done this repair earlier this year.....could it really fail again so soon after?
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leewar
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #46 on: Sep 11th, 2013, 9:35pm » |
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I in no way mean anything by this but was the repair done properly. Once re-soldered it should not only be better than the original, but last a lot longer.
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #47 on: Sep 11th, 2013, 9:45pm » |
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Maybe I was a bit tight with the solder the first time, will try again! Anyone got any tips on the cat clamp/bracket? I couldn't get the actual bracket/clamp to round off enough to give the actual tightening bolt enough "purchase".
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Tompion
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #48 on: Sep 11th, 2013, 10:41pm » |
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Check the 30amp fuses to the ABS one of them will give a C1095 code. I’m only aware of one failure of the dozen or so I’ve soldered but maybe people didn’t like to say In that case it was because I’d used a new small soldering iron instead of the 50yr old big one I normally use. I think for one of the pins there’s a track on both sides of the board & the heat hadn’t got through to the underside. As I’d already cut an extra hole trying to find the problem apart from using more heat I also linked a wire across: It can be tricky getting the pins clean, I scrape off the clear mastic from the surrounding area with something like a matchstick then I gently close a pin vice onto the pins & revolve it to clean off the old solder until I’m back to clean brass then use something like alcohol to clean the area. I always inspect the solder joints with an eyeglass & redo them if there’s a blowhole or black deposit in the solder – I suspect when this happens it’s some of the clear mastic has remained & contaminated the solder.
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ABS multiplug wheel sensor pins MK IV or MK 20
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #49 on: Sep 15th, 2013, 11:31am » |
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The light hasn't come on again now for 3 days so I'm going to monitor it. Still got the exhaust clamp/bracket rattling against the cat mind you!
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scrappydoo
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Re: 2.3 16v Plastic inlet manifold
« Reply #50 on: Jan 6th, 2014, 2:18pm » |
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Unfortunately the small pipe next to the thermostat housing came off on the M40 last night and has caused the engine to overheat and seize! Looks like it's going to the scrapyard in the sky sadly
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