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sierra20
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engine compatability
« on: Aug 25th, 2009, 5:30pm »
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hoping for you help on my sierra, i need to put a new engine in my xr4x4, which is a later model with the hydraulic lifters and no maf sensors, would a 12v engine from a scorpio be a straight swap, obviously after changing the sump and fitting a fly wheel?
thanks
btw has anyone ever done a diy engine change, is it do-able in a garage with a set of ramp and a hoist?.
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pinto
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #1 on: Aug 25th, 2009, 6:23pm »
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yep, should be a straight swap.  Dont forget you'll need a set of flywheel bolts and more importantly, a motion shaft bearing to go in the crank - an auto lump wont have either
 
Its quite possible to do the change in the location you describe, but i'd advise having some muscle on hand to assist you with the heavy bits Smiley
 
For a novice, spare a good weekend to do the swap.
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sierra20
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #2 on: Aug 25th, 2009, 6:31pm »
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thanks for the advice, what is the motion shaft bearing? where does it go on the crank?
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pinto
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #3 on: Aug 25th, 2009, 6:37pm »
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Its a very small needle bearing race about 1/2 inch in diameter that goes in a drilling right in the end of the crank - its designed to support the first motion shaft from the gearbox.  As an auto has no first motion shaft - no bearing Smiley
 
It'll cost you about a tenner from fords Smiley
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amigafan2003
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #4 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 12:25am »
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Otherwise known as a spigot bearing:-
 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-SIERRA-TYPE-9-5-sp-GEARBOX-SPIGOT-CRANK-BEARI NG_W0QQitemZ310129847262QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item48352debde&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
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pinto
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #5 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 5:14pm »
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t'ats da fella Smiley
 
AFAIK, all ford gearboxes use the same bearing, so you could go for that one happily
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sierra20
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #6 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 5:50pm »
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thanks for the info guys much appreciated, when i change the engine i am going to change the cam and followers, so it will need the heads off, is it possible to fit the engine in the car without a hoist, but do it by musle, putting the block in first then fit the heads once the block is in the car?
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Jonnycab
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #7 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 7:12pm »
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Depends on how big your muscles are  Grin
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pinto
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #8 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 7:47pm »
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fitting it as a short engine (without the heads or ancilliaries) probably wont be a bad idea, and MIGHT just make the weight manageable - the v6 isnt the most featherlight engine out there.  You'll need to fit the cam first tho as it isnt possible with the engine in the car.
 
Also, is it a performance cam you're fitting ? if its too wild, then it wont work with the hydraulic tappets and you'll need to go back to manual ones.
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sierra20
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #9 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 8:58pm »
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yeah, im going get the kit which has the solid lifters with it.
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Highlander
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #10 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 9:03pm »
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on Aug 26th, 2009, 5:50pm, sierra20 wrote:
thanks for the info guys much appreciated, when i change the engine i am going to change the cam and followers, so it will need the heads off, is it possible to fit the engine in the car without a hoist, but do it by musle, putting the block in first then fit the heads once the block is in the car?

 
Having recently removed a 12v engine with a hoist I would say no, you wont be able to manhandle it into place, two of us lifted it off the floor into a van but theres no way we could have lowered it into an engine bay
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:
I give up ! Roll Eyes Too much for an old boy!  Huh

Scorpio_Mike
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #11 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 9:33pm »
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Agree with Highlander - I have a Cologne V6 on the floor at the moment - just the bottom end - block, crank, pistons etc... - without heads I reckon it must weigh between 150 ~ 175 kg so unless you want to damage yourself, the engine or the car you MUST get a hoist.
 
I'm pretty sure you can change the camshaft without removing the heads - take the inlet manifold off and you can get to the tappets, sure I did this on a 2.8 many years ago.
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Highlander
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #12 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 9:45pm »
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If I was doing it without a hoist i'd drop the subframe and jack the car up high enough to get the engine in from below..
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:
I give up ! Roll Eyes Too much for an old boy!  Huh

sierra20
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #13 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 9:55pm »
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thanks for the advice, will rob try and gethold of a hoist, is it easier to leave the box on, or take it off?
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Highlander
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #14 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 10:03pm »
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I doubt you'd get the engine and box out together from the top, i struggled getting the engine out on its own Smiley
 
Might be possible but I didnt try it
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:
I give up ! Roll Eyes Too much for an old boy!  Huh

Scorpio_Mike
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #15 on: Aug 26th, 2009, 10:29pm »
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I recently dropped a complete engine & gearbox from a 2.8 XR4x4 which was a doner car for my project - using an engine crane - down on to the ground.
I supported the car on 2 car ramps positioned under the front jacking points where the floorpan is reinforced. Guess you could use axle stands but my driveway is not flat so the ramps made it a lot more stable.
 
Snag with the 4x4 is that it is no use driving it up on ramps as you need to get the front wheels & most of the front suspension off to get the driveshafts out of the diff / sump.
 
I quite literally picked the car up by the front end with a 2-ton lift engine crane using a lifting strap on the front crossmember - the bit with the towing loop - first making sure it was sound - I wasn't really bothered about bending it a bit as the shell was only going to be scrapped, although after I'd finished there was no sign of bending on this part.  
 
If you want to remove the engine & gearbox as one unit you will have to drop them out as I did although I believe you can remove the engine alone from the top although it is tight.
 
With the weight of the engine & gearbox hanging on the hoist I undid the engine mounts and then the 4 bolts holding the alloy crossmember to the chassis side rails - Don't forget to disconnect the steering rack from the steering column before trying to remove the alloy crossmember. With the crossmember removed I lowered the engine & box to the floor.
 
Get yourself a Haynes manual before you start if you haven't already got one - couple of £'s from ebay, loads on there.  
 
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #16 on: Aug 27th, 2009, 7:35am »
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on Aug 26th, 2009, 10:29pm, Scorpio_Mike wrote:
Guess you could use axle stands but my driveway is not flat so the ramps made it a lot more stable.
 
  
 

Mike, That is the understatement of the year! Shocked. It's about 1 in 5  Shocked Shocked Shocked
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Matt
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #17 on: Aug 28th, 2009, 6:24pm »
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Sierra,  
 
where are you located mate? ive got a hoist you can borrow
 
im in birmingham
 
Matt
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sierra20
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Re: engine compatability
« Reply #18 on: Aug 28th, 2009, 7:56pm »
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thanks for the offer matt, but im in essex, little bit to far me thinks
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