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Topic: Rear Brakes (Read 1158 times) |
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PJDavis
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Rear Brakes
« on: Sep 18th, 2009, 9:44am » |
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Hello All. I'm about to change the rear pads on my 2.3, can anyone tell me for sure whether the pistons wind in clockwise or anti-clockwise, because I'm also going to buy a piston wind-back tool. Any advice on the tool or the exact part number of the tool and where to buy it on-line would also be welcome, my local factors don't seem able to tell me the right tool, and what car/s have the same rear set-up as mine.
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I love 'Movvy' 1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley) 1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey) 1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
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Simmo
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #1 on: Sep 18th, 2009, 9:52am » |
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They wind back clockwise. The tool to get is shown Here. As you will see it is a Draper unit 3/8 drive and this is just one site,of many, which comes up on a Google search. People have bought them via e-bay.
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gozz
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #2 on: Sep 18th, 2009, 9:53am » |
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Both rear calipers wind in clockwise,have you had a look in Machine Mart ? GOZZ.
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gozz
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #3 on: Sep 18th, 2009, 10:11am » |
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Simmo. Looks as though we were both on the case together I reckon the VS024 one in your post may be better because a fair pressure is needed to drive the pistons back whilst turning them.It can be done if you are strong and dextrous with a pair of 90 degree circlip pliers ,but it's painful ! GOZZ.
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Tons_of_fun
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #4 on: Sep 18th, 2009, 4:13pm » |
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I can vouch for the Draper tool. Used to have one myself ( before the local darlings relieved me of it ). Double check that the pin pattern on the tool is ford compatable as Draper do 2 versions ( found out the hard way )
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PJDavis
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #5 on: Sep 18th, 2009, 5:46pm » |
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Thanks very much gentlemen. Item ordered, now I'll just need to fit the new pads, which should be a piece of cake,although I'm not looking forward to loosening off the bleed nipples, they're rather rusty, and I should really bleed a wee bit of fluid out. I'm assured that WURTH 'Rost-Off-Ice' is the stuff to use for things that may 'snap'! The next question in a week or so maybe "who has some nice rear calipers" I'll let you's know how I get on!
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lesterlad aka Rodders
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #6 on: Sep 18th, 2009, 7:34pm » |
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on Sep 18th, 2009, 5:46pm, PJDavis wrote:Thanks very much gentlemen. Item ordered, now I'll just need to fit the new pads, which should be a piece of cake,although I'm not looking forward to loosening off the bleed nipples, they're rather rusty, and I should really bleed a wee bit of fluid out. |
| Never had to loosen the bleed nipples on any car that I have replaced the pads on.....loosening the fluid reservoir cap so as to relieve back pressure was suffice.
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gozz
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #7 on: Sep 18th, 2009, 9:55pm » |
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PJ. lesterlad is quite right,and strangely enough none of my bleed nipples has been near to snapping whenever the system has been apart and needed bleeding.The worst problem is rounding the heads off which won't happen if you use a six sided spanner or socket as against the twelve 'toothed' variety. GOZZ.
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Jonnycab
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #8 on: Sep 19th, 2009, 12:57am » |
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Why would you want to loosen off the bleed nipples ?....you'll get air in the calipers
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joe-satch
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #9 on: Sep 19th, 2009, 7:23am » |
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when i replaced the rear pads on our daughters ultima (and the rear pads on my mk3 scorpio),i used a G clamp,and a pair of curved jaw mole grips to wind the piston back in,the G clamp is used to keep slight pressure on the piston and just wind in the G clamp handle as the piston moves back..easy. .
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Kenboy
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #10 on: Sep 19th, 2009, 12:13pm » |
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Hi A little tip, make sure the handbrake lever assembly is free to move (They Often seize) if it is not then you will have a problem winding the piston back all the way I know I had a nightmare with this until the penny dropped. Good Luck Kenboy
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conoflex
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #11 on: Sep 19th, 2009, 5:51pm » |
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on Sep 19th, 2009, 12:13pm, Kenboy wrote:Hi A little tip, make sure the handbrake lever assembly is free to move (They Often seize) if it is not then you will have a problem winding the piston back all the way I know I had a nightmare with this until the penny dropped. Good Luck Kenboy |
| AH HA! Just had that problem for MOT (failed Thursday) h/b levers wern't completely free moving so failed on park brake efficiency down to 10% all sorted now tho Andy
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Simmo
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #12 on: Sep 19th, 2009, 6:29pm » |
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What was the secret of your success??.
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conoflex
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #13 on: Sep 20th, 2009, 12:30pm » |
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A Big Hammer + WD 40 & lots of patience working em back an for
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PJDavis
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Re: Rear Brakes
« Reply #14 on: Sep 21st, 2009, 8:41pm » |
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Again thanks to all. Unfortunately the res' is full to the brim nearly of fluid! Previous owner must have thought this important! The fluid is a bit darker than should be and will need changing anyways, and I was intending to change the fluid at the same time. Naturally I shall use 'single-hex' socket to loosen the nipple, but I must say, it looks as if the calipers have never been serviced in the cars 80 thousand miles.
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I love 'Movvy' 1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley) 1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey) 1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
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