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Topic: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning (Read 1374 times) |
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John Dickinson
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24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« on: May 11th, 2010, 12:39pm » |
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Can anyone explain the apparent failure of my timing chain tensioning system. I was aware of a very slight rattle which I thought was a loose heatshield which I had experienced on a previous occasion. As it had worsened I decided to take a closer look and found the noise to be coming from top LH side of the engine. This was yesterday, and appears to have spread to the RH side today. I'm fearing the worst and preparing to de-commission the car as I am not prepared to spend the relatively vast sums I suspect will be needed for repair. Annoying really as in all other respects it runs well.
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Highlander
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #1 on: May 11th, 2010, 12:56pm » |
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Hi John, the RH tensioner was revised early in 1997 due to this problem. The oilways get blocked and the tensioner fails, the chain guides then get worn or broken off completely which sounds like what has happened to yours? http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/timingchain29.htm It can be repaired but as you said, the price of the parts is excessive compared to the likely value of the car. Cheapest and easiest fix is fitting a second hand engine.
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #2 on: May 11th, 2010, 1:04pm » |
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if its just a rattle on start up then dont worry about it, pretty much all 24v's do is due to a badly designed chain tensioner, essentially the oil drains out of them when the engine has been turned off for a while, worst when cold starting but should not last longer then a few seconds, if it lasts longer then you may have 1. wrong grading of oil, low oil or wrong type of oil 2. worn oil pump 3. the worst one , failure of the chain guides which is known on these engines, first thing i would do it get then engine warmed up then drain the oil into a container, then once all the oil is drained allow the drained oil to stand for a hour then have a feel at the bottom of the container for any bits if none first refill the engine with a cheap oil, again run the engine till hot then drain that oil off, replace the oil filter then refill using a good quality fully synth oil, i always use 0w-40, its about £50 but does the job
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John Dickinson
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #3 on: May 11th, 2010, 1:35pm » |
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I had the start-up rattle not long after first getting the car which was initially cured with a new device (behind the alternator) not actually the tensioner as I understand it. The start-up rattle returned but after reading an article on them, stopped using additives with oil changes and have never had this issue since. This time the noise started firstly on the LH side, today spreading to the right. I've had no oil pressure warnings, oil level is OK and was last changed with filter about three months ago. I've resigned myself to losing the car but just trying to understand what happened. Seems most likely to be an oil supply problem as suggested and likely that the damage is already done.
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Matt
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #4 on: May 11th, 2010, 1:40pm » |
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on the off chance drop both of the drive belts off the front and run the engine for a few moments, may be a failed belt tensioner
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John Dickinson
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #5 on: May 11th, 2010, 2:09pm » |
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Matt, Thanks for the suggestion but tried that yesterday after going into clutching at straws mode. Unfortunately that wasn't the problem.
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Highlander
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #6 on: May 11th, 2010, 2:12pm » |
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John, is the rattle just at start up or is it constant?
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:I give up ! Too much for an old boy! |
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John Dickinson
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #7 on: May 11th, 2010, 2:32pm » |
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Unfortunately Highlander it's constant, not a regular sound but always present.
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Highlander
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #8 on: May 11th, 2010, 2:37pm » |
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If you press the throttle to the floor and then turn the engine over do you still hear it? If it detects WOT (Wide Open Throttle) the engine SHOULD just crank over and not start BUT we have heard of an occasion where it DID start, be ready for it just in case it does as it will be rather noisy
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:I give up ! Too much for an old boy! |
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #9 on: May 11th, 2010, 7:01pm » |
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I have been having problems with the death rattle as well, did it on most startups. Changed oil to 10-60, expencive but seems worth it, as 80% of rattle has now gone. Have tried taking revs up to 2000 just before turning off, hoping that the extra pressure takes the slack out of the chains. WOT starting, make sure you push hard on throttle as mine has started using this method. Ps. engine sounds very sweet now.
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John Dickinson
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #10 on: May 11th, 2010, 9:05pm » |
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Highlander, will have to try the cranking test but is there any other way of inhibiting the start other than WOT. I don't fancy it starting with high revs considering how it sounds at idle. Can you tell me what your line of thought is with regard to this test?
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #11 on: May 11th, 2010, 11:09pm » |
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Or you could try parking your car on a kerb over night so one side is higher than the other. Not sure which side but i think it's the passenger side thats higher.............
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #12 on: May 12th, 2010, 6:47am » |
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Anyway, it's probably worth to get the tensioners while one still can. £50 + delivery is the price for the kit (plungers and valves) here: http://www.burtonpower.com/Default.aspx The large guides are also for sale for £20 a piece.
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John Dickinson
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #13 on: May 12th, 2010, 7:33am » |
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In a previous life I would probably have had the engine out and in bits by now but the deterrent now is the size of the job. Start-up rattle has been mentioned by a couple of members but that is not the issue.....if only it were. I have experienced this in the past and I mentioned my thoughts in a previous post. I'm now convinced the tensioning system has failed big time and as well as replacing the bits the cause of the failure would need to be determined as well. I'd hate to make a repair only to have it fail again. Failing a miracle I think it may be time for the Scorps retirement but I can't quite believe it's come to that yet. I'm trying to convince myself it's only a car.
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Dave2302
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #14 on: May 12th, 2010, 9:31am » |
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If you can be bothered, get the spanners out and pull the sump and front cover. Most BOB engines with a rattle can be fixed for less than 100 quid, if you do the work yourself. The one way valve in the tensioners often sticks causing this problem, these can be fixed without taking off the front cover, they are the bits that bolt on externally, need a very thorough clean and working in and out until they are spotless and moving freely. HTH Dave
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #15 on: May 12th, 2010, 6:23pm » |
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Its the front drivers side corner that needs to be lower than the rest of the car. Tonyboy.
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #16 on: May 13th, 2010, 3:50pm » |
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if you've got the rattle, then the only fix is to replace the worn out parts, some of which arent available any more. the sump will have to come off as well there will be bits of broken ttensioner & guides stuck in the strainer.
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #17 on: May 17th, 2010, 9:49pm » |
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Is there something one can do to reduce the chance of these failures/issues? I have seen many Cosworths in Germany with engine damage due to thrown cam chains, but it isn't a typical problem in cars here in Norway. This leads me to believe that high rpm use, particularly over time, is the main culprit for these problems, although it could also be hard use from cold, something the Germans are infamous for due to their high-speed Autobahns.
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #18 on: May 18th, 2010, 7:48am » |
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I agree with you on that. Some thoughts (and I may be wrong too). Germany has a huge export of older premium cars particularly to eastern Europe. Be at the border between Poland and Germany along the Potsdam-Poznan and one will see. If a workshop rate in Germany is 90€ and 15€ in eastern Europe, cars with major flaws which can be repaired, albeit with huge work effort are attractive to sell complete "Export Only". I think Autobahn is one reason for cam chain/belt damages (snap at 5k rpm etc. and nowhere to stop), but I also think mobile.de is flooded with improperly flagged "scrap" cars (search for a 10 year old car and look at the cheapest 20%), which in many other countries would have been towed to a breaker straight away. This does give the illusion cam chain/belt failures are very common (which they probably are), but they are brought to "daylight" perhaps more often. I am not saying German sold cars are worse than others, most of the ads are pretty upfront with all known problems, and theres a lot to choose from. But e.g. Germany has winter too, and in the Nordic countries almost everybody uses block heaters, speed limits are low, distances may be longer allowing the car to slowly heat up etc. That surely affects engine life.
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Re: 24V Timing Chain Tensioning
« Reply #19 on: May 18th, 2010, 8:46am » |
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leaving the engine idling seems to be detrimental, low oil pressure, the chains whipping about, causes havoc.
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