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Topic: Changing rear wheel bearing (Read 816 times) |
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tonyboy
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Changing rear wheel bearing
« on: Sep 2nd, 2010, 8:55pm » |
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Has anyone got any tips or tricks in changing the rear wheel bearing. ... Bearing .. in mind that i have never done it before. Iv'e seen that you can use a pair of long nose pliers instead of a wind back tool for getting the calipers off. Cheers Tony
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Scorpio_Mike
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #1 on: Sep 2nd, 2010, 9:34pm » |
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Tony, The rear wheel bearing setup is the same as on a MK3 Granada or a Sierra with rear disc brakes - Haynes manuals for both are on ebay for a couple of £'s - well worth picking one up IMHO. I've had to do my n/s rear wheel bearing twice in 3 years now. Not a difficult job but you will need a large socket for the hub nut and a suitable torque wrench to tighten it up again - personally I would use a new nut and not be tempted to re-use the old one. You will need a hub puller to remove the hub from the axle. If you undo the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the carrier you can get the caliper off the disc and shouldn't need to worry about winding back the piston unless you are fitting a new disc or changing the pads at the same time.
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gozz
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #2 on: Sep 2nd, 2010, 9:42pm » |
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Tony. I've got a spare Grandad book if you need one. GOZZ.
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Highlander
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #3 on: Sep 2nd, 2010, 9:51pm » |
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on Sep 2nd, 2010, 9:34pm, Scorpio_Mike wrote:You will need a hub puller to remove the hub from the axle. |
| Whats wrong with leaving the nut on a few turns and swinging a 4lb hammer at it! I'll never make a real mechanic
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:I give up ! Too much for an old boy! |
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Scorpio_Mike
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #4 on: Sep 2nd, 2010, 10:01pm » |
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on Sep 2nd, 2010, 9:51pm, Highlander wrote: Whats wrong with leaving the nut on a few turns and swinging a 4lb hammer at it! I'll never make a real mechanic |
| Well, there is always the 'Highlander' method but I'm surprised ( and disapointed ) that you suggest a 'wimpy' 4lb hammer - or did you mean 14lb
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gozz
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #5 on: Sep 2nd, 2010, 10:04pm » |
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Strange that Stuart I do it with a big copper beast,if I were a mechanic no self respecting posh main dealer would set me on,they only employ 'technicians', they don't know about the judicious application of the 'Birmingham Screwdriver' GOZZ.
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tonyboy
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #6 on: Sep 2nd, 2010, 10:15pm » |
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on Sep 2nd, 2010, 9:42pm, gozz wrote:Tony. I've got a spare Grandad book if you need one. GOZZ. |
| Thanks for the offer Gozz but i think i still have a (Grandad ) Manual somewhere from when i had my MK3. As for the hub puller it looks like a hammer will come in play Cheers Chaps
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Highlander
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #7 on: Sep 2nd, 2010, 10:16pm » |
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on Sep 2nd, 2010, 10:01pm, Scorpio_Mike wrote:Well, there is always the 'Highlander' method but I'm surprised ( and disapointed ) that you suggest a 'wimpy' 4lb hammer - or did you mean 14lb |
| I gave my 14lb hammer away, i found it did more damage than good Tony, i've never found them to be particularly hard to move, a couple of taps usually does it
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:I give up ! Too much for an old boy! |
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tonyboy
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #8 on: Sep 2nd, 2010, 10:39pm » |
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on Sep 2nd, 2010, 10:16pm, Highlander wrote: Tony, i've never found them to be particularly hard to move, a couple of taps usually does it |
| Glad you mentioned that i was getting ready with me sledge hammer.........
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gozz
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #9 on: Sep 2nd, 2010, 11:11pm » |
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Tony. If you refer to the Grandad book,the nomenclature is a bit duff,the hub is the bit with the wheel studs,the bit they call the hub is the hub carrier.And of course the Scorpio hub nuts are both right hand thread.You can use the old bearing outer races with the outer surface ground off,as a drift for fitting the new bearings,the inner races sometimes come out jammed on the hub,they can be a sod to remove ! If you need a new hub it,s Ford 6156880,makes a mess of £100 .The most expedient way of overcoming the problem,is to get a known good used assembly,ie hub and carrier,and swop them over.Don't forget to tighten the big nut to 200lb/ft. GOZZ.
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Simmo
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #10 on: Sep 3rd, 2010, 7:35am » |
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on Sep 2nd, 2010, 8:55pm, tonyboy wrote:Has anyone got any tips or tricks in changing the rear wheel bearing. ... Bearing .. in mind that i have never done it before. Iv'e seen that you can use a pair of long nose pliers instead of a wind back tool for getting the calipers off. Cheers Tony |
| Have a read of This article by Snoopy and all should be clear. As for pliers I'm sure it can be done BUT a wind-back tool from Draper is only a few pounds and well worth the money. To achieve the all important 200ft/lbs torque you'll need to use a large wrench as most DIY ones won't go that high. The Draper unit is shown Here. If you do the job make sure you check the torque setting after a hundred miles or so. Not unknown for them to loosen off despite the correct torque.
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tonyboy
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #11 on: Sep 3rd, 2010, 3:36pm » |
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Thanks Simmo. I'll check my touque wrench see what it goes upto...................
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #12 on: Sep 3rd, 2010, 7:46pm » |
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I think it will have to be a 'professional' 3/4 drive to get to that figure.
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tonyboy
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #13 on: Sep 3rd, 2010, 8:00pm » |
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Just had a look at my torque wrench. It's a 1/2" drive and goes upto 150 ft/lbs
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tlundkvi
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #14 on: Sep 3rd, 2010, 8:18pm » |
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Well the Pro 1m wrench is a good investment, most likely it will be needed to undo the caliper mount as well
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Nunnspoet
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Re: Changing rear wheel bearing
« Reply #15 on: Sep 10th, 2010, 8:07am » |
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I'm a bit late comming in on this one, but here is a little tip: My torque wrench goes up to 150ft,lbs so I torqued the bearing up to that, replaced the torque wrench with a long bar (aprox 2xfeet long) and using my body weight turned the nut a bit more. I then, carefully, drove my Scorp to my local ATS a mile away where they were happy to Torque the nut up to the 208ft.lbs required. ATS came to mind as they deal a lot with heavy Farm machinery. Mike
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