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PJDavis
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Inlet Manifold
« on: Mar 28th, 2013, 9:52am »
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Last night I discovered that my car is using a bit of water.   I was underneath it this morning and the underside of the nylon inlet manifold is wet and there are some drips coming from that area.   The side of the engine block is dry, and I think this has been going on for a couple of weeks, aye just a slight loss of coolant.   Fortunately I have a brand-new spare Inlet Manifold, so I'll just swap them over.
 
Obviously I'll need to change the coolant, and I'll put a new Thermostat in, this I've done before.   How easy is the inlet manifold swap?   Just a matter of removing the injector-rail and all the other bits and swapping over?   I've got new rubber-gaskets and all that stuff, I'm not really perterbed about swapping the throttle body, in fact I think I have a gasket-set for that kicking about as well.   I was a wee bit apprehensive about the pressure regulater thingy in the manifold, and looking at descriptions do I need some sort of special tool?   I'm pretty good with spanners, so if there's not special stuff needed and it's a straight swap I'll be golden.
 
Any suggestions welcome, hope to start the job tommorow.
 
Peter
 
P.S.   Regarding my other thread about the car being offered for sale.......Nada.........I sold my Mk2 Cortina Estate last night for a great price to a good home.    So Movvy will remain.
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I love 'Movvy'
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
Tompion
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #1 on: Mar 28th, 2013, 10:24am »
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The fuel pressure regulator comes out easily, you should change the O ring but I've put it it back several times with the the same O ring & I've not had a problem.
 
There's a vertical bolt underneath that can be troublesome if the insert turns, it's easier to get at from underneath with the car on ramps although some say they've worked solely from above.
 
I'll have a look for some old posts.
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PJDavis
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #2 on: Mar 28th, 2013, 10:40am »
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I saw that blasted bolt whilst lying underneath with the car on ramps, and I did wonder??   So, I won't need a special tool to extract the bit under the dust cap?  (Fuel Pressure Adapter)   I remember taking the injectore rail off the spare engine, it just seemed to pop off!??
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1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
Tompion
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #3 on: Mar 28th, 2013, 11:06am »
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If you mean the adapter valve that looks like a tyre valve that stays in place.
You need to disconnect the fuel lines under the manifold as they stay with the manifold. I find squeezing the plastic lugs and pushing them on helps release the claws before you pull them off.
There are 2 studs as well as bolts that hold the manifold to the head the studs need to come out to get enough room to remove it.
 
Have a look at this post & the links:
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Advice;action=di splay;num=1240763009;start=2#2
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Simmo
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #4 on: Mar 28th, 2013, 1:43pm »
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PJ.  Any chance of a camera on this job please?  Sounds like we need a How to do things thread. Wink
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PJDavis
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #5 on: Mar 28th, 2013, 1:48pm »
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Top-Hole Tomp!!   I'll get started on it tomorrow and see how I get on, I'm off for the next fortnight on Easter Hols anyway, so got plenty of time.
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1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
PJDavis
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #6 on: Mar 28th, 2013, 1:50pm »
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I'll try and remember the camera-job!   Cool
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1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
gozz
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #7 on: Mar 28th, 2013, 7:46pm »
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PJ.
The vertical bolt to which Tompion refers is best left in until the manifold is off,better to remove the horizontal bolt holding on the bracket through which the vertical bolt goes,and remove it with the manifold,you can reach it from the top with a small socket extension.
             GOZZ.
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PJDavis
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #8 on: Mar 29th, 2013, 6:44pm »
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Job Done.   I will post up some pics, I didn't take very many, but I'll include a wee story.
 
When I say the job is done.....................Well I'm not finished yet!!! Embarassed   Another problem has now occurred.
 
The car is now 'Fazing' on tick-over.   It has always 'Fazed' a wee bit when it was cold, but as soon as the temperature came up a little the tick-over steadied to a nice purr.   All the parts on the manifold I took off have been fitted to the new manifold, and the car starts and drives fine but the tick-over is up and down.   I changed the throttle-body for a spare new one I had and that made no difference.   I cleaned the MAF sensor, still no difference.   All the pipes are back on where they should be.   I wiggle all the pipes about and that makes no difference.   The wiring loom is in perfect order, it was changed not long ago for a new one.   As a last attempt to do something, and seeing as I've spent about Six hours on this problem, I disconnected the battery in the hope it might do some kind of 'reset'!!!
 
This 'Fazing' makes the car really difficult to live with when driving on tick-over, I've spent the whole day tearing my hair out with this problem!
 
The problem with the leak was the gasket goosed where the water-galley joins the cylinder head, also the brass insert for the small hose that comes from the heater just easily broke out and I suspect it was having a wee leak as well.
 
So, if anyone has any ideas about this erratic tick-over..............Please please help me!
 
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I love 'Movvy'
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #9 on: Mar 29th, 2013, 7:21pm »
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Good way to diagnose air leaks - grab a can of Easy Start and methodically squirt it around the manifold gaskets, hoses etc - if there is a leak it will pull in the easy start and the revs will rise.
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Simmo
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #10 on: Mar 29th, 2013, 8:37pm »
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PJ, Good to know you've done the job. Hope you quickly resolve the latest issue. Look forward to your write up etc. Thank you. Mike.
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Tompion
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #11 on: Mar 29th, 2013, 8:39pm »
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Have you tried oiling the Idle Air Control Valve. I usually just take the valve off, turn it over & pour in some light oil or redex & work the piston back & forth to force oil into the chamber (the piston rod is hollow, so oil will be forced through it if you cover the bleed hole at the end with oil), others use carb cleaner.
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #12 on: Mar 29th, 2013, 9:20pm »
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Hi PJ,I had a similar problem with rough running after i had replaced the inlet manifold on my 2-3, i ended up changing it twice, it was very rough, i did think it seemed like an air leak, If i remember correctly there is a tube round the back of the head, I think it is this steel tube, that i had accidently pulled out of the crankcase breather tube, (rubber) located underneath the exhaust manifold at the rear, Good luck, Bob
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PJDavis
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #13 on: Mar 30th, 2013, 1:12pm »
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Oiled and changed the Idle-Air-Control-Valve, and checked the pipe-work again.   I can sometimes hear a hissing sound when I fiddle with the pipes, and the car does seem to fluctuate when I'm fiddling with the pipes!    
 
When the car is first started, (and it starts first turn of the key) all is well, it ticks-over fine and drives fine.   Once the car is warmed up with temp-gauge sitting in the middle, it drives perfectly right to the red-line and back down, and driving gently along as well.   Then I get down to a slow speed and stop, the car initially ticks-over ok, even moving about the gears whilst stationary is fine.   Then after about maybe a bit more than a minute, the tick-over starts to fall-away a bit, gets down to about 750rpm, then kicks up to about 900 and at this point starts fluctuating between those two speeds at one second intervals.   Sometimes a blip on the throttle steadies it for about 10-15 seconds before the tick-over starts to drop away again.
 
Then I took the car out for a run this morning and came back and it was fine ticking over for about 5 minutes and doing all sorts of things to try and get the blasted thing to 'faze' and it just sat ticking-over perfectly............................d**n thing!!!   I'm seeing Dave2302 in about Ten days, so he'll maybe be able to help!   It's driving me nuts!    Roll Eyes
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1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #14 on: Mar 30th, 2013, 1:37pm »
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PJ. I once had something similar. Regretfully it turned out to be the MAF which in real terms is only diagnosed by a scan. This might sound daft BUT you have reconnected the MAF?. It has been known for the connector to fall down out of sight and get forgotten. Wink
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PJDavis
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #15 on: Mar 30th, 2013, 2:41pm »
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Aye, I cleaned the MAF, then re-connected it.   It's not that the car isn't drive-able, it's just a nuisance when in town and it starts to play-up.   The rest of the time it drives like a dream!   Next job is the front brakes, they do need doing!
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1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #16 on: Mar 30th, 2013, 3:53pm »
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I once had a problem with the MAF that occasionally caused the engine to faulter just as I was pulling away.
Might be worth swapping it with the one on your 2.0l.
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #17 on: Mar 30th, 2013, 5:29pm »
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Hi Peter,
 
I have a similar problem I have a 24v and once I have started it from cold it sits idling perfect for about a minute then the hunting starts and it is bad it rocks the car side to side in P or N but in drive it rocks the car forwards and backwards. If I look at the pulley's and the belts you can see them go faster and slower. Once the car has warmed up it ticks over vertually fine!!!  
 
If I pull the MAF electrical connector off while it is doing this the car then ticks over fine and as soon as I plug it back in it starts to hunt again until warm.  I have been getting codes up which relate to running to lean and rich and misfire. I have changed so may things on the car now I am not sure what to do now. I am lost so I would be glad if you could post any news you find which might help me out.
 
Kind Regards
 
Michael
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #18 on: Mar 30th, 2013, 11:02pm »
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Had exactly the same as Michael with one if my 24v's. After a long frustrating search it turned out to be a crack in a plastic T piece between the engine and the bulkhead which was cracked (vac line). Replaced and bingo! Had done all the things Michael had with exactly the same results.
Glyn
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Re: Inlet Manifold
« Reply #19 on: Mar 31st, 2013, 9:46am »
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hi there
 
have you had the battey off? maybe get it to re-learn the values.
 
hth
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