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   Author  Topic: Wheel nut question  (Read 1716 times)
Pianoman
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Wheel nut question
« on: Nov 7th, 2014, 12:20pm »
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Sorry if this sounds stupid question, but I want to replace the locking wheel nuts with normal ones.
Are all wheel nuts the same? Where do I get them and what do I ask for?
Many thanks
Tony
 
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Snoopy
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Re: Wheel nut question
« Reply #1 on: Nov 7th, 2014, 3:03pm »
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Get some normal ones from a scrappie just make sure they are the same as the ones on your car.  
 
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PJDavis
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Re: Wheel nut question
« Reply #2 on: Nov 7th, 2014, 5:56pm »
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Watch-it.   They aren't all the same, don't presume that Ford will fit Ford.   Get Scorp or Mondeo.   If you look on the 'Net, it'll give a 'pitch and diameter' stick to that.   Never try to force a wheel-nut on, it could be the wrong thread.
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Scorpio_Mike
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Re: Wheel nut question
« Reply #3 on: Nov 7th, 2014, 6:50pm »
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Chamfer angle is critical...to the nuts NOT coming undone and the wheels falling off...  Shocked
Wheelnuts for alloy & steel wheels often have different angles.
Ford dealer should still be able to supply the correct nuts.
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Pianoman
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Re: Wheel nut question
« Reply #4 on: Nov 7th, 2014, 11:01pm »
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I have requested a quote from Ford parts UK.
Mike has me worried now, my wife uses the car in Norway (she works there) It normally has 12 spoke alloys on, but for the snow, I put on bog standard steel wheels (originaly off another scorpio). do you think there is a problem using the same nuts ?
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Glyn
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Re: Wheel nut question
« Reply #5 on: Nov 7th, 2014, 11:12pm »
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Well, the spare wheel is steel and I don't have any different nuts to fix it - just the ones on the alloys.
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scorpio_man
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Re: Wheel nut question
« Reply #6 on: Nov 8th, 2014, 12:20am »
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Hi there
 
Wheel nuts for alloy wheels generally have a 'separate' collar.
 
Hth
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Tompion
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Re: Wheel nut question
« Reply #7 on: Nov 8th, 2014, 9:34am »
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No danger in using the correct Scorpio alloy collared nuts on steels but the collars may seize if used long term.
 
The collared nut has 2 bearing surfaces, the smaller taper of the nut or the larger taper of the rotating collar.
When used on alloys the loose collar stays still & prevents the nut chewing up the alloy.
When used on steels the taper of the nut is used.  
The reason not use to them for long periods on steels is that the collar stays loose & is subject to dirt/water ingress & may seize. When you use them again on alloys they could chew up the alloy.
 
Whenever I’ve use them on steels I always work some oil into the collars & make sure they’re free.
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Glyn
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Re: Wheel nut question
« Reply #8 on: Nov 8th, 2014, 7:48pm »
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Thanks for that, useful information.
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PJDavis
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Re: Wheel nut question
« Reply #9 on: Nov 9th, 2014, 4:01pm »
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on Nov 8th, 2014, 9:34am, Tompion wrote:
No danger in using the correct Scorpio alloy collared nuts on steels but the collars may seize if used long term.
 
The collared nut has 2 bearing surfaces, the smaller taper of the nut or the larger taper of the rotating collar.
When used on alloys the loose collar stays still & prevents the nut chewing up the alloy.
When used on steels the taper of the nut is used.  
The reason not use to them for long periods on steels is that the collar stays loose & is subject to dirt/water ingress & may seize. When you use them again on alloys they could chew up the alloy.
 
Whenever I’ve use them on steels I always work some oil into the collars & make sure they’re free.

 
Good advice, and I always make sure the collar is free.   Don't be tempted to 'copper-slip' the threads, this promotes 'over-tightening'.   Just put copper-slip on the inner-rim of the wheel that contacts the hub.
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1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
Pianoman
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Re: Wheel nut question
« Reply #10 on: Nov 14th, 2014, 5:08pm »
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Thanks for all the info. I have managed to get the correct nuts from Ford Parts UK  at £2.88 + vat each
Tony
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