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Topic: Drop Link Replacement (Read 551 times) |
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brds
Full Member
 
Posts: 150
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Drop Link Replacement
« on: Jul 14th, 2017, 2:11pm » |
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I'm changing the drop links on my '95 2.0L Estate prior to putting it back on the road after 3 years on SORN - this is hopefully the last in a long list of jobs.
I've got the car jacked up on the O/S (with additional safety blocks of wood) and managed to get the drop link off after a struggle - it's definitely worn.
Problem now is lining up the bottom of the new one with the hole in the anti-roll bar. I can just about lever the roll-bar down with a crow-bar but it's risky and I don't want to damage myself or the thread on the new link.
Question therefore is, how can I organise things to take the stress out of the roll bar and line things up easily.
Bob
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Scorpio_Mike
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Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 V6 & 2.8 Sierra XR4i 4x4
Posts: 2354
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Re: Drop Link Replacement
« Reply #1 on: Jul 14th, 2017, 2:22pm » |
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I think you need to jack up both sides of the front to let the suspension drop - if you only have 1 side jacked up, the anti-roll bar will still be under tension from the side which still has the wheel on the ground.
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Sierra XR4i's are great...especially when fitted with 4WD 
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Simmo
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Posts: 5508
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Re: Drop Link Replacement
« Reply #2 on: Jul 14th, 2017, 2:37pm » |
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I think Mike is right. Get both sides off the ground. There is an article Here which may help.
You will read that I had an issue with the top nut but there is another article Here which explains that there may be another access point. 
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brds
Full Member
Posts: 150
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Re: Drop Link Replacement
« Reply #3 on: Jul 14th, 2017, 6:42pm » |
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All done - I moved the car to where I could get at both sides and jacked the front up onto two bits of railway sleeper that I use as ramps.
The new O/S link then went in very easily.
N/S old bottom nut was very stiff and needed tapping with a club-hammer on the spanner - found that it's better to slacken them with the top still tight so as to stop the link bouncing about on the roll-bar. Old link then came out - it was also worn. The new one went in very easily.
Simmo - thanks for article links. I managed to get at the top nut flats by turning the steering but still had to grind down a spanner to make it thin enough to get at them. The new Delphi links are much better with the hexagonal key in the top.
Mike - The new steering wheel and load cover look very smart. I didn't have to change the airbag so kept the new one in case anybody ever needs one.
Thank you both very much.
Bob.
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Simmo
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Re: Drop Link Replacement
« Reply #4 on: Jul 14th, 2017, 9:24pm » |
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Glad you are sorted Bob.
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