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   Author  Topic: Changing auto oil cooler pipes  (Read 574 times)
Revan
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Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« on: May 19th, 2004, 9:31pm »
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Hi everyone - first time poster, long time lurker  Grin
 
I have just started to replace my oil cooler pipes on my '97 2.3 Ultima as they were seriously leaking (thanks to the tips and help I found on here). Well done to the design guru who came up with running the pipes under the foam!
 
Anyway, I got one of them done (the short one) but I'm having a problem with the longer one that runs to the gearbox - the gearbox dipstick is in the way. I had a fumble around with it but as light was disappearing I thought I'd abandon it and come and ask the pro's.
 
I can feel a nut on the bracket which holds the dipstick in place about 8" up from the gearbox but how in God's name I'm supposed to get a spanner on that, I shudder to think.
 
Can anyone help me out? My Scorp is currently up on ramps in my driveway and I'm having to drive my wifes Renault Megane to work - a serious come down!!
 
Thank you.
 
Mark
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bertie
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Re: Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« Reply #1 on: May 19th, 2004, 9:47pm »
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having just replaced all 3 on my 2.3....I have to say I never undid the dipstick!
 
I undid the bracket near the front holding the 2 longest pipes together which gave some slack/movement.
 
I used an open ended spanner on the gearbox pipes to loosen the pipe nuts a flat at a time until they were finger slack....whilst pushing against the sound proofing with my other hand to allow clearance to the pipe nuts.
 
Fiddly I know but successful...refitting is the reserve as they say making sure not to cross thread the new pipe nuts.....
 
If you did want to unbolt the dipstick, invest in some ratchet spanners from halfords as they are a god send....put the spanner up into the bellhousing from underneath and locate the dip stick bolt...13 mm...place ratchet end over an undo. the spanner allows 1 degree of movement per click.....
 
hope this helps
 
simon
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Revan
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Re: Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« Reply #2 on: May 19th, 2004, 10:08pm »
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Thanks for your help Simon - I'll give this a whirl when I get home from work tomorrow.
 
Thinking about it - I didn't think to undo the other pipe (the one towards the bottom of the autobox). I suppose shifting that like you suggest would give me a bit more clearance to work in as well.  
 
Once this is done, how many litres of fluid do you reckon I would need? (ballpark is fine - need to swing by Fords to get some). When I removed the pipes from the radiator I expected a bit of a deluge but it sort of dribbled out - must have leaked the rest during my travels!
 
Thank you again,
 
Mark
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Iain
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Re: Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« Reply #3 on: May 19th, 2004, 10:12pm »
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i recently replaced all 3 cooler pipes on my 2.0
 
as bertie says, one flat at a time!!
 
takes a bit of time, but persevere and you get the job done.  push the soundproofing out the way and get the open end of a spanner in, relax and take your time,  
 
dont shout and swear at it, it doesnt work!!!!
 
good luck
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Re: Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« Reply #4 on: May 19th, 2004, 10:14pm »
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mine only dribbled out the front pipes too, took about 2 litres to refil mine (though not sure how empty it was to begin with) i had a fair leak, someone had replaced part of the pipes with longer rubber hoses - made a nice mess.
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Re: Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« Reply #5 on: May 19th, 2004, 10:24pm »
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I was a wimp when it cam to changine mine on my 24v. Took it to a garage and it cost £187!!! ouch!
 
   Cheers Nick Wink
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Revan
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Re: Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« Reply #6 on: May 19th, 2004, 10:54pm »
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Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences with this.
 
I've taken on board the good advice received here and I'll dive under the car tomorrow for Round 2.
 
Oh that reminds me - I've got the Scorp parked up on a pair of 2 ton rated stands (per pair) from Halfords. I should be safe shouldn't I? While they weigh a fair bit, they do look a tad flimsy although they appear to do the job. To put my mind at ease, I have 3 ton axle stands under there as well - they sit about half a centimetre away from the crossmember. Belt and braces job - the Scorp is a heavy beast!
 
Thank you again, and I'll report back with my success (or failure!!)
 
Mark
 
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Rich
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Re: Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« Reply #7 on: May 19th, 2004, 11:07pm »
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This is a weak spot on the scorpios judging by the amount of people who have said theirs are corroded. I just checked mine whilst doing a service and found them quite rusty. I have wire brushed them down painted them with jelonet rust preventer and then given them two coats of galvinising paint. I will keep a good eye on them but ideally I should change them too.
The under tray is a must.
Regards Rich
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allante
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Re: Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« Reply #8 on: May 20th, 2004, 6:43am »
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I changed the long one for a friend of mine but it was only corroded at th e front so all i did was cut the pipe off further back, cut the new pipe to match and joined them with a compression joint. easy peasy!!
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Revan
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Re: Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« Reply #9 on: May 20th, 2004, 11:39pm »
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Thanks to everyones help - the operation appears to be have been a success. No more slipping gears thank god.
 
As I'm a bit of a wuss, I have left the engine cover off for the next day or two to make sure I'm not leaking anywhere and the connections I made are sound.
 
In the end for ease of access, I removed the oil dipstick. Quite easy to get to with a ratchet. I still think though, that the placing of the top pipe is a complete a**e of a thing. I got it off without much effort, but lining it up to screw in the new one took me about 15 mins to get right! I have very big hands and it's a fiddly little crevice of a place to work in.
 
Anyway, subject to a pool of transmission fluid on the driveway when I go to my car in the morning, I think it's been a good success. Thanks to all the members who have helped with advice.
 
Mark
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Max Payne
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Re: Changing auto oil cooler pipes
« Reply #10 on: May 21st, 2004, 3:55am »
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I had to change the Trans cooler lines on my '87 Ranger a few years ago. I undid the rear tranny mount and lifted the rear of the transmission a few centimetres, then I took off the lines and the bracket on the bellhousing. I found that helped alot!
 
But alas I cheated and made new ones from 11mm thinwall stainless tubing and did my own double flare fittings. I am also redoing one line to accomodate a spin-on filter for the Automatic fluid. The stock filters inside the transmissions are pretty bad for filtering.
 
It's too bad you can't see them. They're kinda pretty in a suble sort of way. Cheesy
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1987 Ford Ranger, 2WD, 2.9L V6 12 valve, 3.73 gears, A4LD. 339,954 Km's on her. Edmonton, CANADA
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