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Topic: Coolant leak (Read 1574 times) |
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john.n
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #1 on: Jan 15th, 2005, 9:29am » |
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What engine do you have? john.n
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john.n
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #3 on: Jan 16th, 2005, 11:02am » |
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HAve you checked all hoses? I would be inclined to look there first, noting any sign of antifreeze (normally blue/green). If its only slight as you say , i may be one of those loose, any sign of water in the car- leak from the heater. john.n
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George
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #4 on: Jan 16th, 2005, 11:21am » |
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hi silver poppy i would try tightening your heater hoses first the ones that come out of the bulkhead from your heater matrix one of them runs round the back of your engine to the water pump i would also check this pipe to see if its clipped up properly at the back of the head and not rubbing on anything the other comes round the left side and to the back of the thermostat housing its worth checking these if you have not aready hope this helps george
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SaveTheNight
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #5 on: Jan 16th, 2005, 11:56am » |
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Hiya S_P ..worst case scenario and worth checking is the core plug in the back of the head above the bellhousing .. < I think the 16v has one > ..use a dentist type mirror or compact mirror to take a peek .. not the most likely but worth looking at .... regards .....STN
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stigrolf
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #6 on: Jan 16th, 2005, 11:30pm » |
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the thing save the night said was it on my ultima 2.3 16v and it is not the easiest thing to change, but the sparepart was cheap, in swedish kr it was 56, in £ i think 4. but the job to change it is WERY troublesome.
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Eric_R
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #9 on: Feb 7th, 2005, 10:34am » |
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John, Yes, this is the core plug at the back of the engine. It has to be that because a leak from anywhere else would be visible outside the engine. The core plug is about an inch in diameter and it's inside the bell housing behind the flywheel/driveplate. You need to support the rear of the engine, remove the gearbox and flywheel/driveplate, punch the coreplug through and remove it. You then clean the hole with sandpaper to remove the corrosion, round and round the hole, not in and out. Then brush a small amount of paint on the inside of the hole, offer up new coreplug with a suitable socket to fit inside the rim, then drive the coreplug home until it is is evenly sited inside the hole. Use a torque sealer on the flywheel/driveplate bolts and reassemble the gearbox - in the case of a manual take the opportunity to replace the clutch driven plate and thrust bearing while you're in there.
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SaveTheNight
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #11 on: Feb 7th, 2005, 8:37pm » |
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I'm saying nothing !!
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Eric_R
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #12 on: Feb 7th, 2005, 11:29pm » |
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Sorry, STN - I didn't see you'd already mentioned the coreplug - SilverPoppy, you mention a flywheel, so I reckon you have a manual gearbox. I know it's a bit more to pay, but while the gearbox is out get the garage to replace the clutch driven plate and the thrust bearing at least. They have been sitting in a suana created by heat from the engine and moist with coolant - which dissolves stuff, seriously, so get them changed too. The clutch itself is probably all right. Before your mechy gets going, make sure he understands that the propshaft to diff flange bolts need marking so they go back in the same holes they came from - otherwise you may be plagued with propshaft vibration that will drive you crazy. Print off the manual for the clutch at http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/mantrans.htm for him. Good luck.
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Baz
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #13 on: Feb 7th, 2005, 11:44pm » |
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Amazing how you just know these things Holmes!! What about this Cosworth......There is a puddle in front of it
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Eddie
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #14 on: Feb 8th, 2005, 5:51am » |
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If you want an inlet manifold gasket let me know.I have an unused one. Happy to let you have it for 1/2 price +postage. Continuing on, have you checked the front of the inlet manifold for a missing bolt,below the thermostat housing. Slip your finger along the bottom flange of the manifold,under the housing,look for either a bolt/stud or,if its missing,the hole where it should be! If it is missing then a 10mm bolt will do the job. This,incidentally, is how I came to have the Gasket. During the process of removing my manifold I discovered that the bolt was missing (3 top and only 2 bottom),so I tightened everything back up and added an extra bolt in the hole and my leak dissapeared. The Ford dealer refused to take the Gasket back despite the fact it was still in its sealed bag! eddie
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Eddie
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #16 on: Feb 8th, 2005, 9:55pm » |
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As you should(!) see above,it is indeed a 2.0L 16v inlet manifold gasket part no.7087456 1/2 price +postage,say 25 pounds? Email me at etrich@ntlworld.com eddie
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Eric_R
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #17 on: Feb 12th, 2005, 11:24am » |
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Baz, Elementary, my dear Watson - although of course Holmes never actually said that, Silver Poppy, No probs m8 - the manual has a flywheel to provide inertial mass to smooth out the firing strokes at lower revs - so its a heavy plate with the starter ring heat-shrunk onto its outer surface. The auto doesn't need a flywheel, because the torque converter provides the mass required - but it still needs a plate to mount the torque converter and of course, somewhere to put the starter ring gear - so it has a thin steel or alloy drive plate. Scrub the bit about the clutch etc then - the TC is sealed and is unlikely to have been effected by the coolant. Your tecchie will need the pages on http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/autotrans/A4LDE16V.pdf Emphasis that he needs to mark the prop shaft bolts into the diff flange - and also that the torque converter can simply drop out of the transmission when the autobox is separated - believe me, he doesn't want that to happen, HTH BTW - look at the photos - very nice car.
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daveyboy
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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #19 on: Feb 21st, 2005, 7:08pm » |
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HI SP, Further to your problem, it may well be worth getting the rear crankshaft oil seal changed! Very easy, for someone who knows what they are doing, to do it if they are going to the trouble of stripping the box & t/c off! Saves a lot of bother later on! Your mechanic should know! Good luck
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Daveyboy
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