Hi there 3 weeks ago my head gasket blew, to the point where there was no compresion whatsoever on turning the engine over. (the wife was driving at the time) The engine almost glowed with the heat, BUT the engine temperature guage failed to register that the temperature was rising! Any ideas why that would happen? The garage said that pipes and hoses were melting due to the heat generated, ther head has been re scimned bits and bobs replaced, now they are saying that engine sensors had melted! Does anyone know of any other damage that might have been caused. How frequent do head gaskets blow on these cars?
P.S
Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny. Its under warrenty so the repairs ain't costing me a penny.
A head gasket mustn’t blow at all! Unfortunately your engine was severely overheated, in such case the head looses it’s shape or even cracks. DOHC engines are very vulnerable to it. A new gasket won’t help – you should repair the cylinder head or replace it. And always use new bolts and tighten them with right torque!!!
if the water level drops below the sensor if will not show any thing is above 100 centigrade as its in steam so it looks normal as the block gets hotter the sealent in the sensors will then melt out from there fittings and if it got that hot i would push for a new engine as it is shot they can skim the head all they want and it will not be right alloy heads will warp and suffer stress cracks if they get to that kind of temp the block is a stressed part of the engine and will anneal so leaving it prone to twisting and failuer in the future as will the head (they are probably hoping that they can coble it together till its out of warranty then its up to you to fix it )
ps im a blacksmith so i know that of which i speak where metal is concerned
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hi i did my timing chains also put in 6 valves in the 24v 2.9 timing chain pdf file on here it says you can reuse the head bolts 2 times and punch mark them i did but only gave them one 90 deg turn after the inital torq as they felt pretty close to snapping aslong as they are all torqed tight in right order thats the most important thing i will put new ones in tho cos somewhere else on here it says to use new bolts(another section on head gaskets or timing chains) the cost for new bolts was 58 and the head set which contained the right head gaskets but everything else was wrong (must have been for 12v 2.9)cost 90 so to do the chains and both heads was 440 which is not bad garage wanted 1500 thats why the guy sold it to me uneconomical to repair i rekon both ur heads will need checked for warpage its a nightmare working on the 2.9 without a manual but this site gives you all the info needed for any model.
just got my car back... Not impressed 5 weeks later... It now occasionaly stalls and takes forever to start. took it back and the garage recon that the loom needs changing. they are going to do it next friday any other ideas on why it now has poor idle and tkes about 2 mins to crank and start. also the dash computer now tells lies about mpg and Avg mpg.
It has had the Maf sensor changed as well as almost every other temp sensor.