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Topic: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :) ] (Read 1206 times) |
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FordScorpioFan
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24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :) ]
« on: Sep 20th, 2007, 7:38pm » |
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[Part 1 of 2 ... or maybe 3 / 4 .. lol]
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Hi,
Re: Late(ish) 1997 (Pre-Face Lift) Ford Scorpio 24v Ultima
I have a number of queries concerning the above, which I was hoping to ask about  .
First a quick hi / thanks type thing. Hi to everyone and the maintainers / administrators, etc. of the site. Thanks to all who have contributed to this site and forum.
Second a quick synopsis about the vehicle. Runs perfectly. Previous owner had it privately maintained (i.e. not FMD) - but seems / sounds all good. Previous owner had water pump replaced, few bits, etc. As I say runs fine... starts great first time every time, good idle, no misfire or anything dodgy, pulls sweetly and cleanly all the way through, etc.; autobox is well behaved; battery cover is their (lol - and have thoroughly cleaned fuse and auxiliary relays / fuses areas, etc. - their was some crap build up, etc.). So basically it runs fine and is pretty good by all accounts. ~70k miles. Yes their are a few bits, as with any vehicle 10+ years old (and I am tempted to add ... and with a vehicle that is a Ford - may not be so true any more these days - i.e. with their current or more modern vehicles) (but in any event - the Scorpio was certainly one of their more solid vehicles - and hence possibly slightly less failure prone?).. all good. Think that is the main deal for background. As I say, essentially it all works well, ABS, engine, electrics, etc., etc.
Their are some more immediate, or perhaps main issues, as well as a handful of relatively minor or trivial bits which can wait for another time.
1) Cooling
Their are some good posts on here and information on the main site concerning the cooling system. Specifically, I am interested in:
1.1 Thermostat
1.1.a - Would it be very serious to run with it completely open / without it? I.e. I understand the essential function is to speed up the initial warming up of the engine and in EXTERME cold weather allow the engine to remain within normal operating temperature range? Hence, short of very extreme low external temperatures, and I hazard this must be less than -10 oC, would I be right in thinking the only real issue will be taking longer to warm up (consummate with engines generally not being big fans of being cold for to long whilst warming up, etc.). Further, essentially I am advised in this case the thermostat went faulty with previous owner shortly before he was to sell it, so didn't want to fork out and so his mechanic set it wide open (is this feasible ?). I might imagine with the BOB weird three way thermostat, it may actually have just been removed or the innards ripped out and the casing then just put back. Any thoughts or suggestions on this front or about this?
1.1.b Replacement Thermostats - Is it simply the case that all the autofactors have a mistake in their parts database - i.e. they all think they have the BOB 24v thermostats, their systems don't list a 12v 2.9l, and the reality is they have 12v 2.9l thermostats? They look like a normal thermostat (vale on a spring type affair - largely exposed), autofactors are asking about £5, and it doesn't look like the copper piping T-piece like looking thing I am lead to believe is the actual item. Does any of this sound right?
1.1.c Are their any easy alternatives to consider to the genuine Ford £70 monster (particularly monster considering it seems to go wrong often enough and potentially have caused untold other problems for the vehicle and owners - e.g. radiator blow outs, etc.!). Great  - lol. E.g. perhaps using a BOA fitment or patching ones own "in line" thermostat into a radiator hose, etc. [Aside: I wonder why they tried to be clever for the BOB when the BOA system {thermostat configuration} seemingly worked fine.. try to be clever and make it worse? - anyhow / who knows.]
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Continues ...
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FordScorpioFan
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #1 on: Sep 20th, 2007, 7:40pm » |
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[Part 2 of 3? ... or maybe 3 / 4 .. lol]
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1.1.d As per 1.2 below, I am basically going to have to drain the system anyhow, so is it easy to inspect? I.e. My understanding is, and having reviewed some great pictures on here (particularly one members full rebuild he was doing - striping that red beauty down to the chassis etc.) as well as the main site information, the thermostat is housed within another exterior housing on the top right of the engine near the top right corner of the right hand bank of the V engine. Further, I am concerned that as with 1.2 below I am going to be doing a flush, that I don't want to start fiddling with additional pipes and connectors that may be brittle or break - really don't want that. Better not to disturb if it is all essentially ok anyhow. Anyhow, is the thermostat within this outer housing? It has feeds from (I forget precisely / exactly), water pump?, one off to radiator?, one to heater matrix down middle of V, and the seemingly potentially rather infernal or scary through the right cylinder head pipe? Does that sound right? As I say, if it is not worth worrying about, I would rather not touch it. If inspecting should be easy, etc. then as draining the system anyhow, it makes sense. My particular concern is for example, particularly, splitting the pipe that goes through the head of the right bank (that would be unfun) - I imagine it only has about 1 inch protruding out to this thermostat housing - hence if you split it, you can't cut off and reattach - you need to take of the heads and fork £400 for a gasket set (I may not be strictly accurate here). I don't want to risk breaking or break any pipes for that matter (e.g. heater matrix off take from thermostat block, etc.). Thoughts, etc. welcomed ? .
Somewhere in their I was thinking of mentioning if anyone might be able to help with a cheap thermostat that might be an option if it is collectively deemed really necessary to attend to / fix, etc.? By the way, am I right in thinking it is a temperature sender / sensor on the right hand side of this thermostat housing block (on the right of it as you face the engine from the front of the car).
1.2 System Flush
1.2.a Their is a great post or two on here about this. Should be straight forward. Can someone give me a quick run down (I will reference the original post if I can find it before, for / during the job). I.e. where to drain, where to flush (where to put hosepipe), reverse flush point(s), etc. Any other thoughts, things to be aware of, etc.
1.3 Heater Matrix Flush
1.3.a The internal heating is about as warm as a cold pancake (ok not that bad - but not far off). Engine temperature is fine, radiator hoses are nice and warm. Hence, I expect the heater matrix wants a flush. I have again read a great deal of useful and helpful info on this front - and really suspect it is probably just full of a lot of crud (and probably a lot of the rest of the system is to). Sadly I know these things fail... but I am going to only be on the positive and happy go lucky side... and say it just wants a flush! lol... If it wants any more it can probably just have tough luck... again unless a cheap part might be available, and then only if I am really keen - that is one job that doesn't seem a lot of fun (tight pipes, tight squeezes, knuckles, etc., etc.). Can anyone please advise further, quick run down, etc. on where the two heater matrix pipes start and end? I believe it is... starts by / from thermostat housing near top right front of engine and returns back right of engineish? Any other things to consider, know, etc. (apart from giving it a good hosing forwards and backwards for a good 30 minutes ish).?
Thanks
Key thing here is that with a 12l cooling system and £20 of coolant required - I want to go into the system once and that is it. Hence, whatever I do or decide should, de facto, be that, everything else being equal (i.e. something else not going wrong), for the time being.
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FordScorpioFan
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #2 on: Sep 20th, 2007, 7:40pm » |
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[Part 3 of 3]
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2) Brakes
2.1 - Replacing Pads - Front pads will need doing fairly soon (and the rear after that / fairly soonish to ).. Do the front calliper pistons need the wind back tool as well (forgotten... :S)? Real question is if the part should be the one with break sensors / break sensor wires or not?
2.2 - Fluid Drain and Refill - As with routine servicing, hydro[a] / hygro[a]? scopic? brake fluid, you are supposed to change the fluid every x years ... the service manual pages on the main site seem to suggest this is not likely to be a to major or painful a job. I think I will probably leave this job for now... all seems well... fluid is probably fine for the time being... but any suggestions, observations, points to note or things to consider, etc. would be well appreciated (both generally as well as specifically in relation to this job come task - hydraulic fluid drain and refill).
Think that is essentially it for brakes.
3) Climate Control
3.1 This is probably a bit incidental to put in its own separate numbered section and I may as well have included it in 1 above, but can anyone advise what code 57 is on the climate control diagnostics. I have tried to find it but it appears to be missing from the list on the site, or my eyes appear to be missing from my head... Anyhow... It may have been a transitory error or code, and I will do a proper check again some point / next time.. and then as if necessary post again , etc.
4) - General Working
The Scorpio is a pretty big and heavy car. Any considerations for working on it... I want to review the underside (engine bay) anyhow and it will probably help for the coolant drain etc.
4.1 Under Engine Cover - Does this come off easily, Torx 6 is it? Anything to note or observe.
4.2 Jacking - Will axle stands do? Anything to note or observe again particularly, etc.?
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Ok. Thank you very much. Sorry for such a long post... just trying to be sufficiently informative and descriptive, etc.
Those are the only bits of any real concern or issue for the moment or now, etc. anyhow .
Any thoughts or inputs much appreciated.
Further, anyone who knows of, sees or has a remote key fob I would appreciate any suggestions, etc. Their have been a few very nice examples slip past on ebay for £5 to £10 ... so it is probably all good and one day on ebay, or what have you, etc.
Again many thanks and hope you are all well.
Best wishes,
[A] Scorpio Fan
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taliban aka Cheekyboy2
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #3 on: Sep 20th, 2007, 9:25pm » |
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i can only answer a couple of questions as mines a diesel;
as for axle stands, always use them, 2.5 tonne ones as the car nearly weighs 2 tonne, and dont use them on soft tarmac as i did......they will sink into it  .
the brake wind back tool is for the rears only, but draper make a universal wind back 'cube', i picked a new one up on ebay for around £7 including postage.
i changed my front pads and discs a year ago, bought pattern ones from an ebay company £32 quid the lot including postage! i was expecting them to warp but so far so good. i've recently put new pads in the rear, £8.95 for both pairs from halfords which i thought was cheap.
do change the fluid asap though, the rear calipers are apparently prone to corroding due to lack of fluid changes...
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FordScorpioFan
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #4 on: Sep 20th, 2007, 9:37pm » |
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Hi,
Many thanks . I love your picture by the way (nice cat ).
Yep... axle stands and soft or well warmed tarmac don't mix... they are a fight on gravel to - hmm ... lol / or not lol.
As for the 2.5 tonne ones... I have no idea what tonnage mine are... old blue ones ... lol... pretty sure they don't have a rating plate... they are pretty prehistoric . ?
Thanks for the brake windback tool tip... I wonder what a "cube" is - but sounds like that is the most sensible route and well priced (all the more so if it is universal, etc.). Can't imagine the local Ford garage will lend theirs out .
Wow... some good prices on parts their ... ebay deserves a look for almost anything these days hey (just need to remember that!) ... £32 for both discs and 4 pads! ? And £9.00 for rear pads all round or per side? Sounds good .
Hmm... eeekkk... fluid may really need / want doing... oh well - probably not to painful...  /  / /  /  /  /  / / / (sorry... I like the smileys here to much... I will have to learn the best usage profile for each - some members here have their use down to a fine art ).
Thanks again.
Best wishes,
Scorpio Fan
P.s. Before I made this original post, I thought - split up into subject parts or one big post?... both the same / as good as each other I thought... I think perhaps splitting might have been better or more sensible, what have you. All good. . Thanks again.
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taliban aka Cheekyboy2
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #5 on: Sep 20th, 2007, 10:32pm » |
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the 'cube' is basically that, each side has a different fitment size for different pistons, it works well.
after i ordered the discs n pads someone on here (cant remember who) said they'd bought the same and found they warped after 6 months, i've had them a year with no probs but im not heavy on the brakes, i tend to brake using the gears a fair bit......
it'd be worth checking your wheel bearings, they seem to be a weak point on the scorp........
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taliban aka Cheekyboy2
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #6 on: Sep 20th, 2007, 10:33pm » |
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forgot, the cats name is 'alfie'........
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FordScorpioFan
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #7 on: Sep 20th, 2007, 11:26pm » |
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Hi,
Thanks .
Cube sounds good...
I think often with properly cheap aftermarket parts it is the case that a lot of the price reduction is in the range of quality variation - i.e. you get quite a lot of variation in quality, specification or performance... i.e. the tolerance to which the part is made is much wider... hence you may end up with something probably almost as a good as a Feroddo part or you may end up with something as good as an old, worn and already broken china plate to use as your disc... or equivalent for whatever the part may be, etc. Of course, other cheap parts are cheap for other reasons - i.e. complete junk all the time, or vastly inferior materials, rather than just being about wider quality control or acceptable tolerances, etc.
Thanks again and hi to Alfie .
Best wishes,
Scorpio Fan
P.s. I like engine braking to.. bit more artistic with the auto box though (timing seems to be pretty critical - lol... I am sure she loves it... D -> 1 -> 2 -> 1 -> D , etc. )...
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Jonnycab
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #8 on: Sep 21st, 2007, 1:16am » |
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Regarding the brake cube...I bought one of these off Ebay & it works a treat....
....http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sealey-3-8-Drive-Brake-Piston-Wind-Back-Cube-New_W 0QQitemZ150161346282QQihZ005QQcategoryZ30917QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Regarding running the car with no thermostat....
....it will take longer to warm up, but the temp should stay stable when driving around town.
On the motorway though, the temp guage will drop, due to more air flowing through the rad & cooling it....you will find in this case that the temp guage will struggle to get out of the blue & this will cause the engine to run rich.
The fuel economy will suffer & a layer of soot (carbon) will start to build up in the engine, which you will notice on the plugs when removing them.
So best to get that thermostat replaced to keep the engine in good condition
Climate control codes.....
.....http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/ccreset.htm
Code 57 (the 5 is the same as 0) on the climate control means there is probably a fault with the HBC (heater blower control)....a climate control reset may clear the code, but it will probably come back again.
An HBC fault is a common problem on the Scorpio as they have a tendancy to overheat & cut out....even with the massive heat sink that is fitted to them .......maybe an even bigger heat sink may solve the problem 
Finally, the heater matrix is another common problem. The water veins do have a tendancy to become restricted & blocked after a few years.
The easiest way to check for a blocked heater matrix is to check that the outlet pipe is the same temperature as the inlet pipe....a cold outlet pipe means the matrix is blocked & a tepid outlet pipe means that the matrix is restricted & will probably completely block up soon.
A good matrix will have inlet & outlet pipes that are too hot to hold for very long
You can flush it backwards & forwards with a hose pipe to clear the blockage, but it probably won't clear it for good.
In my experience, once the matrix internal veins have become scaled up or corroded internally, then the only long term solution is to replace the matrix
Hope this all helps
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FordScorpioFan
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #9 on: Sep 21st, 2007, 1:44am » |
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Hi,
Thanks jonnycab...
Thermostat - I think if it manages to remain significantly above the blue through winter their is not to much need to worry. On the subject, in terms of considering an inspection of the thermostat whilst I do the heater matrix and cooling system flush:
- where abouts is it (a bit more re-reading leads me to be more sure I am wrong in what I originally wrote - or at least in part - and that in fact it is a single seald "inline" type unit)
- what is the risk to the pipes in their removal and refitment, etc. - i.e. am I likely to damage any and be better off just leaving it alone if it runs ok (temperature range and warm up time etc,. acceptable, etc.).
- can you help me understand this system... I have studied the diagrams and am a bit confused.. what is the other unit near the thermostat - it is a bit unclear on the Ford diagrams... i.e. it seems to split the water feed off in three ways? Where is the thermo, what does it connect to etc?
- when flushing do you recommend flush from top radiator pipe (and disconnect where? - back of thermostat or bottom of system somewhere?) // likewise where do you suggest flushing and reverse flushing the engine?
- the Halfords et. al. thermostat is wrong? I think we can fairly safely say that. It should be a self contained sealed unit?
Heater Matrix:
- just continuing the theme above really.. but main question is can you please advise where the input and output feed pipes for this are to be found please ?
- was just reading another users posts... lol.. he said giving the heater matrix pipes a good few squeezes, and then a good few more got his system back up to working properly (providing full heat) ... lol... (plus he got a bit of chastisement / advice that he had probably dislodged scale and probably made a worse future problem)... but still... lol
CC:
- I am sure their are no worries here... It works fine (apart from the low temp - expected due to heater matrix)... the blower is spot on... I think it must have been a temporary HBC error... all seems well
- I have found the info about the CC on the site a little confusing... half the time it sounds like it does diagnostics and reports error codes - 5x or 0x 's ... but then also it says you can program stuff in by using the up / down passenger temperature controls -... e.g. select 50 to reset dial trims or something...? Bit confused... and don't want to knacker it... it sounds like you also use the up / down thing for reading the fault codes? What am I misunderstanding please! ?
Thanks again.
Best wishes,
News Reader
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Jonnycab
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #10 on: Sep 21st, 2007, 2:12am » |
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Sorry, can't advise you on the cossie T-stat as I don't own one (2.3 owner), but what I've wrtten applies to most cooling systems
Regarding the matrix pipes....the matrix inlet pipe should exit the T-stat housing area & go to the bulkhead (top pipe) behind the engine. It should exit the bulkhead again (bottom pipe) & go to the bottom of the engine.
They are both 1 inch diameter hoses, so shouldn't be too hard to locate
Not sure what you mean by programming the climate control panel ....you can go through any codes by pressing the up/down buttons.
Personally, I only ever get the 57 code & holding down the re-circ & A/C buttons together clears this code....but it always comes back even though the blower seems fine. Might be just a small glitch in the HBC every now & then
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FordScorpioFan
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #11 on: Sep 21st, 2007, 2:32am » |
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Hi,
Thanks again .
No worries about the Cossie side... I am sure some Cossie owners will come along .
As for heater matrix pipes... yes.. this and a bit more studying Ford pictures.. has led me to think I may have to remove the inlet manifold / whatever you call it spider / octupus thing.. Their is what I think is the return pipe (or some pipe! lol) rear right of the engine block area (middleish not bottom) ?
I think from my studying that actually the heater matrix on the Cosworth starts (input feed pipe for heater matrix) at the far side of the oil / coolant heat exchanger (where the oil filter plugs in)?
Anyhooo ! As you say, general principles on cooling systems is good for some bits Thanks again.
As for programming the CC.. it just says on that page (the site page about the CC diagnostics, etc.).. that if you change the control panel.. you need or may need to or something reset the systems knowledge of the hi and low positions of the rotating controls? And that this is done by entering diagnostics and then choosing a particular number (and submitting that by holding re-circ).. perhaps it means that that code will come up as an option or error after replacing the control panel because it has realised it is confused... and then you can follow that procedure. Oh well sounds good... pump up and down to check for extra errors (by the way does it automatically cycle through displaying errors if their is more than one).. or whatever and it is all good . lol .
Thanks again.
Best wishes,
Scorpio Fan
P.s. HBC seems wonderful... it if works, a code 57 hurts no one (presumably).. lol! Does bemuse or amaze me... I like these cars... just wish Toyota made one... how can anyone making a car manage to make a heater system component that fails so readily or gives such problems so soon or quickly / at all... and be made so awkward to fix / replace... when these have been fitted to cars since kingdom come... mumble... Toyota... mumble... etc. lol.. All good.
P.p.s. I have read some of your other posts about cars for taxi use. I know a few people with Toyota Carina E's.. that seem to be like tanks. 200, 250k miles... minor problems (or more like minor servicing components) only! Still going strong . Apparently, a few people have said, in and out of the (motor / mechanic) trade, that taxi drivers like them?
P.p.p.s. Tempting to say, that the other option is to gun the living xyz out of it... and that will probably fix any / everything.. well... it is a Cosworth... (lol - it is ok ... devoted and caring, responsible, etc. owners - I am joking!)... plus having the funds for the petrol and the roads to be allowed to use it on .
P.p.p.p.s. I am sure I am going to have some fun when I get to some posts about some more minor issues, considerations, thoughts, what have you, later - lol . Thanks again.
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Jonnycab
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #12 on: Sep 21st, 2007, 3:22am » |
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About taxi's.....The Toyota Carina E is a reasonably reliable, fuel efficient work horse, but has none of the high spec qualities that the Scorpio has.
I've driven a Carina as a taxi before & spending hours on end in a car that has no comfort value really is quite uncomfortable....been there, done that.....plus you have rear seat passengers breathing down your neck constantly, due to the lack of legroom
The Scorpio may be juicier (fuel is tax deductable when you're self employed), but is far superior to any other car I've ever had to drive as a taxi & passengers do feel as though they are being transported in comfort.....& always tip better
Personally, I like to feel comfortable as well when driving, & bog standard saloons like the Carina, Mondeo, Avensis always give me a sense of claustrophobia.
So I don't particularly care what cars other cabbies drive....I like my Scorp, it's comfy, it earns me a living & the punters love the sumptuous leather seats & smooth ride
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FordScorpioFan
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #13 on: Sep 21st, 2007, 3:30am » |
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Hi,
lol - hey - I am totally with you their.
I was thinking particulary in / with reference to the Mondeo you wrote about being a good workhorse on occasion (in comparison to for example I think a Vectra was mentioned).
Scorpio... no questions .
Best wishes,
Scorpio Fan
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Dave
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Tourmallard 24v (ex-owner)
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #14 on: Sep 21st, 2007, 3:39pm » |
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Hello!
My thoughts as a 24v-er;
I wouldn't run without a thermostat, may as well replace. The pipe that goes between the heads can be replaced without removing the heads themselves. Its awkward, but can be done. My mechanic managed it!
Generally you are best getting the thermostat from Ford, you should get the correct one. I don't know of any alternatives. The 'stat has feeds from the water pump, radiator and pipe between the heads IIRC!
On the 24v there are 2 temperature senders. 1 does the gauge (single wire connection) the other does the ECU including switching the fans on and off (2 wires). Both of these are near the top hose connection.
The pads do not have the wear sensors on them, or rather the car doesn't make use of them.
The engine tray comes off easily, though I found that the threads had all but gone in the fixings. A new set can be purchased from Ford easily and fitted yourself. I used some long self tappers until I got the correct parts.
Hope this helps a bit.
Oh, and welcome to the site
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Neil W
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #15 on: Sep 22nd, 2007, 2:35pm » |
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I agree with Dave's views above. And for clarity we are talking about the 24v Cosworth BOB engine 1995-98 only.
On the 24v the thermostat is low down at the front of the left hand nearside of the engine and you will need to remove the aircon pump and bracket first. The pump pipes are sufficiently flexible to be able to hang out of the way without draining down the aircon system. The brass thermostat is held in place only by the 3 water pipes connected to it but is prevented from moving about by the aircon pump bracket. Whatever else you do, please do not replace the thermostat with anything other than the genuine 3 way part or you might damage your engine.
The thermostat is called a "connector" in Ford speak and the part number is FINIS 7334678 and costs about £40 + pp from Ford Parts UK (Cedant Ltd). I have only recently replaced my thermostat after 120,000 miles, so it is not always a part that fails frequently on our Cosworths. The reason for the 3 way thermostat on our cars is because the uprated BHP of the Cosworth engine requires significantly greater cooling of the heads, although I agree the design has a major weak point in the cooling pipe from the top of the thermostat through the left hand bank head (nearside bank) into the centre of the "vee". This can, however, be replaced (with difficulty) but you do have to remove the air intake manifold to access the end in the central "vee" (and will need new gaskets - very cheap).
There are 2 sensors for our cooling system; a sender for the temp gauge Finis 7171007 and the temp sensor with 2 wires Finis 6810428. Both of these are at the front of the engine in the centre of the "vee" and visible after removing the "Cosworth" engine cover. They very rarely go wrong.
Another weak spot is the radiator ballooning, usually along its bottom edge, but I remain unconvinced that the radiator blows because of a faulty thermostat (known on this forum as the Sherlock Holmes theory of EricR). Equally a possible cause for blown radiators is - quite simply - the complexity of the Cosworth cooling system and gradual ageing of key components. (That should get the cooling experts going, lol).
The engine under tray is held in place by 4 torx screws, and its front edge (flexible) sits on the bottom of the bumper, and the rear edge clips to the engine support bar running across the car adjacent to the steering rack in such a way that the outer edges of the tray are below the support bar lip and the centre part is above the support bar lip.
I use a 3 tonne hydraulic jack to lift the car and standard 2 tonne axle stands under the jacking points. I lift the car fairly high so that I can easily lie underneath on a ply board covered with old carpet as my drive is rough surfaced.
Before winding in the brake caliper pistons do make sure you
(a) pinch off the flexible hydraulic hose and
(b) release the fluid drain point to allow fluid to seep out. Any back pressure on the hydraulics will make an expensive mess of your ABS unit.
Hope all this is useful.
Neil W.
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1998 Scorpio Ultima Cosworth facelift saloon, reg S896VOG. Sold Feb 2010. Now own Mercedes-Benz E320 CDi.
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FordScorpioFan
Newbie
I'm a YaBB (& relative Ultima 24vScorp) newbie! ;)
Posts: 27
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #16 on: Sep 23rd, 2007, 8:19am » |
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Hi,
( ... to both of you / all!).
Just a quick post for the moment. Am going to see about doing this job today...
... only thoughts remaining (additional to your very helpful posts and input):
- heater matrix... where to flush (presumably the far end of the input and output heater matrix pipes?).. which leads me to where are these two pipes? No worries... I will try to study the Ford diagrams better... mean time any help much appreciated (And by the sounds of it you don't think I will be likely to risk any real pipe damage by inspecting the thermostat / disconnecting pipes around the system generally)
- system flush - where to flush (a bit like the previous) and drain? I will guess in the absence of any particular recommendations... (I.e. initial drain, points to flush from, etc.). I think it was suggested that essentially I try to flush the system in two stages (radiator and connected parts and then engine)... not overly sure on which points to do this from (or necessarily where to find them)... again all good... I can do my best effort of guessing but your recommendation would certainly be highly valued!
Thanks again, and a fuller response to some of the other points later .
Best wishes,
ScorpioFan
P.s. Which parts of the cooling / heating system run between the heads (in the "v") and how do they get distributed to (i.e I believe they all start at some distribution point up from the thermostat on the left hand bank [nearside]?)? Am I going to need to / is it worth taking the top engine cover (octupus cover) off? Thanks again .
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Snoopy
Administrator
Very old.BAD tempered and missing friends.
Posts: 6278
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #17 on: Sep 23rd, 2007, 9:54am » |
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The place to flush the heater matrix is wher the pipes ener the bulkhead do it both ways.
As to where to flush the whole system just flush the system using the top pipe on the radiator or you could use one of the proprietory flushing agents but the use of good antifreeze can help .
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FordScorpioFan
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I'm a YaBB (& relative Ultima 24vScorp) newbie! ;)
Posts: 27
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #18 on: Sep 23rd, 2007, 10:02am » |
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Hi Snoopy,
Thanks for the help... am about to pop out and give this a go I think.
Just to confirm:
- heater matrix - disconnect pipes at the heater matrix end, then stick hose pipe on the metal connectors coming out of the heater matrix (one way then the other - i.e. flush and back flush)? I take it as water will be flowing freely out all over the place from whichever hole the hosepipe is not on that their is nothing around that area of the engine bay that will mind a dosing (or is it necessary to attach a drain pipe to the side not connected to the hose!)
- main cooling system - I am thinking here... two stages... i) radiator side(ish! ?) - top radiator hose to bottom radiator hose(ish)?; then ii) engine - water pump / oil water heat exchanger sideish to somewhere near thermostat / block? Can you perhaps straighten my head out! .. please .
Thanks and best wishes,
ScorpioFan
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FordScorpioFan
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I'm a YaBB (& relative Ultima 24vScorp) newbie! ;)
Posts: 27
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Re: 24v Ultima - Various [ Cooling, Brakes, etc. :
« Reply #19 on: Sep 23rd, 2007, 10:48am » |
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P.s. How does the water pump fit into the 24v system (what feeds into it and what does it feed out to)?. Have studied various of the Ford diagrams... sadly like most.. certainly of this era... they don't always do "joined up" diagrams (i.e they leave some connections out, break continuity of connections in diagrams by splitting them into seperate system part diagrams that aren't always clear, etc.) Thanks
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