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Topic: battery light (Read 1936 times) |
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tintin
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battery light
« on: Nov 19th, 2007, 5:13pm » |
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ok, not a big one, i think, but weird.
battery light starts flickering / staying on for up to 10 secs once car has been driving about 10mins (once temp gets above blue), and then stops when fully warm. reading from the internal computer indicates 13.9V throughout. new battery 3 months ago. it isnt at the same time AC kicks in, later than that. battery is always charged next day etc. the light used to glow (not flicker) sometimes last year, put it down to PS fluid dripping down, but seemed to cure itself, not done it this year.
so, is it loose connection? or dodgy alternator? ive been ignoring it for a month now 
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'95 Cosworth Ultima
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scorpio_man
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Ford Kuga awd
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Re: battery light
« Reply #1 on: Nov 19th, 2007, 9:19pm » |
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hi sam
i'd check all the connections and maybe clean any gunk off.
hth
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martin_rowe
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Re: battery light
« Reply #2 on: Nov 20th, 2007, 8:32am » |
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is that 13.9 under load, ie heater blower, ac, h/lamps, front & rear heated windows switched on, get things switched on to check alternator output.
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Rally Drivers Do It Sideways
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tintin
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Re: battery light
« Reply #3 on: Nov 20th, 2007, 4:09pm » |
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andy, do you mean battery connections and alternator connections? will do. just odd that as soon as it hits temp. it completely stops.
martin, not under load, but with AC on. i dont touch a thing and as soon as it goes above blue it starts flickering (well after AC first kicks in)
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tintin
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Re: battery light
« Reply #4 on: Jan 13th, 2008, 6:59pm » |
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ok, drove car today, stopped at friends, tried to start, everything lit up ok, but nothing when key turned. strange.... try again, started fine. stopped at gym, 1hr later same thing, but continues not to start. proverbials  its dark, so cant see anything under bonnet....
so, get socket set out, tighten earth on battery, still no start, tighten live, it starts. stop again, no start. tighten live some more, feels like its just squishing the terminal now. wiggle it. starts fine, and does another two stops.....
so, i assume this was the likely issue, and maybe terminal heats up faster than metal on connector, hence red light during warm up only as connections "just" breaks.
either a slightly broken lead on live, my tightening needs to be more aggresive, or just needs cleaning? will take another look when its light (a narrow window in edinburgh!)
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scorpio_man
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Re: battery light
« Reply #5 on: Jan 13th, 2008, 7:04pm » |
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hi sam
i'd go with the cleaning route first. did you check the voltage output with the engine running?
hth
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tintin
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Re: battery light
« Reply #6 on: Jan 13th, 2008, 7:07pm » |
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yeah, it fine, sits for days and starts fine, it turns nice and fast once it gets the connection, so no probs with battery or charge..... think its just a loose connection to the battery. how tight is tight on the battery? im not used to really cranking pressure on a battery connection.....
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carmow
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Re: battery light
« Reply #7 on: Jan 14th, 2008, 8:33pm » |
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Have you checked the earth to the engine? if thats got any play you may well have the same result as loose battery terminals.
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tintin
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Re: battery light
« Reply #8 on: Jan 21st, 2008, 9:30pm » |
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ok, the plot thickens. 2 weeks ago, i turned the key, ignition lit up, final turn, NOTHING, not even a click. odd, i thinks, turn off, turned back on, started fine. <Shrug of shoulders>. Drives fine for a week.
Last week, same thing, but off/on didnt cure. I tighten the battery terminal cables, starts first time, drives fine for a week.
Tonight, same thing, this time nothing works. Call Green Flag. Things checked :
Try in Neutral, nothing, back in Park, nothing. Bongs when in a real gear.
Try brdging the starter motor. Car fires, but immediately dies. Bridge again, and rev, it get up to 6000rpm, then dies.
Check fuel cut off switch, fully depressed (like us at this stage).
Check PATS light, no codes, lock and unlock car doesnt help.
Try "special relay R11 trick", but just quickly, not "properly", doesnt help.
Swap Relay 17, doesnt help.
Wiggle battery cables, notice terminal is cracked a bit (d**n Halfords batteries), no help.
Car still not turning on key (not a click), bridging it starts the car to rev for a second then it dies.
OK, 1 hour later, final checks, tap PATS unit under glovebox (admittedly it is a touch damp), wiggle battery cables, wiggle fuses in passenger side, STARTS FIRST TIME. You should have seen the look on the rescue mans face, as I gave him the "i told you to wiggle the battery cables" eyebrows.
Drive it home, sweet as a nut (no battery light even), stop at other end, stop, and it starts first time again.
Answers on a postcard please as to how the car doesnt start on key, but can be bridged to "half-start". PATS error wont stop it from turning over, fuel error wont either !?!
What does Relay 21 do? Ignition Lock??
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Highlander
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Re: battery light
« Reply #9 on: Jan 21st, 2008, 11:07pm » |
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I'm still thinking ignition switch.
possibly selector switch too though it appears ok.
Starter motor/solonoid? (although seems to work when bridged and wouldnt account for engine dying)
Engine earth connection?
dodgy wiring that could be anywhere... 
Cant think of a connection between the alternator problem and the non starting but they may be connected (cables routed together?)
Going for another think about it 
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:I give up !  Too much for an old boy!  |
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tintin
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Re: battery light
« Reply #10 on: Feb 21st, 2008, 12:49am » |
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update : car wasnt starting, highlander plugged nasa into the car and found 4 codes logged in the enhanced section, attempted theft type thing. cleared them, and it started first time, and every time monday tuesday wednesday without further intervention. pats light is not flashing at all when car is locked.
does anyone know how long an "attempted theft" immobilises for, eg an hour? and will a battery off cure it? need to track what is causing it as well.....fob locks and unlocks fine
andy, can you hunt down the "cure" details and pm me if you find them.
fingers crossed for the mot this weekend....
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Highlander
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Re: battery light
« Reply #11 on: Feb 21st, 2008, 1:29am » |
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Heres what came up
B1600 PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) ignition key transponder signal is not received
B1602 PATS received invlaid format of key-code from ignition key transpnder
B1682 PATS is disabled (check link between PATS & transponder)
As far as I can find out it from the interweb it appears to be a physical problem, ie sumfins broken loose wire/water ingress etc possibly in the steering column area
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:| I give up ! Too much for an old boy! |
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scorpio_man
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Re: battery light
« Reply #13 on: Feb 21st, 2008, 4:43pm » |
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on Feb 21st, 2008, 1:29am, Highlander wrote:Heres what came up
B1600 PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) ignition key transponder signal is not received
B1602 PATS received invlaid format of key-code from ignition key transpnder
B1682 PATS is disabled (check link between PATS & transponder)
As far as I can find out it from the interweb it appears to be a physical problem, ie sumfins broken loose wire/water ingress etc possibly in the steering column area |
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hi sam/stuart
my guess would be the first one. i'll pm you why i think this.
hth
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hughiemc
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Re: battery light
« Reply #14 on: Mar 3rd, 2008, 9:15pm » |
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Hi, this thread was like flashback for me. ALl the symptons you have i had i.e. car worked fine then battery light came on stayed on went off flickered all at different times. The car started sometimes other times (ten mins later) it had nothing but ign lights. After a few weeks and several wrong ideas the alternator finally gave up and on replacing it I have had no problems at all. P.S my old one had PS fluid leaking into it!!!
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tintin
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Re: battery light
« Reply #15 on: Mar 4th, 2008, 1:03pm » |
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hi,
thats interesting, i wondered about the alternator, but had no idea why it would immobilise the car I have even taken the almost new alternator off my scrapper, so might be worth trying that on it.
cheers,
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Simmo
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Re: battery light
« Reply #16 on: Mar 4th, 2008, 1:26pm » |
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If it helps answer your query I was out with a friend in his BMW when we lost the instument panel readings and eventually the car cut out. This was down to an alternator fault.....remedied in the short term to allow us to get home, by the breakdown guy,by a wack with a club hammer!! and a 'jump start'. I kid you not !!. The wack freed up the brushes which were eventually replaced.
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v4-max aka Cheekyboy1
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Re: battery light
« Reply #17 on: Mar 7th, 2008, 7:03pm » |
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my batterry light started glowing a few weeks back, f thought dodgy alternator but turned out it was because the battery was nearly flat charged said batt no light since. or problems.
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tintin
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Re: battery light
« Reply #18 on: Apr 8th, 2008, 8:17pm » |
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car is on its last chance
stuart has replaced transponder etc, same symptoms, replaced CCM, same. gonna try alternator and ecu on monday, fingers crossed.
any other ideas? anyone bypassed a cossie immobiliser successfully? if so, pm would be appreciated, else an otherwise good car is going to the scrapper. 
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Jonnycab
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Re: battery light
« Reply #19 on: Apr 8th, 2008, 10:53pm » |
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Have you tried a different battery yet ?
Like any part that comes out of a factory, there will always be a percentage that are faulty in some way & will make it's way onto the market (Ford sold me a faulty fuel rail pressure regulator ).
Batteries can suffer the same production mistakes (Halfords  )....... Things like bad internal post connections can easily pass a quality control inspection but only show up later on when fitted to a car
So if the alternator is, as you say, charging at 13.9v & there seems no other explanation apart from maybe a PATS problem, then maybe the battery is the culprit....
.....It's a thought
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