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SteveO
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Climate Control Error Codes
« on: Jan 30th, 2011, 11:53am »
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I carried out the CC diagnosis test this morning and got codes 51, 52 and 57 in the passenger temp' display.  
 
Could these be 01, 02 and 07?
 
I don't have any intermittent fault codes.
 
Symptoms include having to fiddle with the blower knob to get it to stay in AUTO, have to move it fractionally to get it to stay on when in manual. Takes about 5 minutes operation in AUTO to boost the air to demist the screen.
 
As for the tangs to get the panel out... aaarrrggghhh Embarassed
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Tompion
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Re: Climate Control Error Codes
« Reply #1 on: Jan 31st, 2011, 12:32am »
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Yes, take the codes as being the same as the 0* ones. My guess is it’s a digital S rather than a 5 & they’re stored codes as opposed to live codes but I have no evidence of that.
Apart from clearing the codes the reset procedure also zeroes the control knobs as they are variable resistors, but if they are dirty they can easily go out of sync, sometimes just turning them back and forth rapidly a few times may clean them for a while or you can try some switch cleaner - but you'll need to take the panel out again to do that.
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ABS multiplug wheel sensor pins MK IV or MK 20
SteveO
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Re: Climate Control Error Codes
« Reply #2 on: Jan 31st, 2011, 8:57am »
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Thanks for the tip on cleaning. The panel seems to be a sealed unit - can it be spilt to get at the switches?
 
Steve
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Re: Climate Control Error Codes
« Reply #3 on: Jan 31st, 2011, 12:26pm »
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I find it easier to remove the dash surround.  A 25 Torx, as far as I remember, and a short Philips does the trick.  Instructions are found in Dash removal....  I remove the dash surround because it is all to easy to damage the edges when trying to remove the cc panel, also, it is easier to re attach the grey ribbon plug to the back of the cc panel.  
 
No need to split anything Steve.  
 
Mike
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Tompion
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Re: Climate Control Error Codes
« Reply #4 on: Jan 31st, 2011, 1:56pm »
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He meant to split it to get at the potentiometers Wink
 
The panel is clipped together, put it somewhere warm to minimise the risk of breaking the plastic clips.
I can get the back off just using my thumbnails, but if you can't do it that way use a screwdriver – with more risk of breaking the clips.
 
Look along the top edge, a little to the side of the connector you’ll see a small hole with one of the clip legs of the back.
Push your nail between the case & the back at that spot & lever the top edge up sufficient for the back to slide.
Now push your nails between the bottom steel clips & the back & slide it towards the top.
Now spring the top out more & it should come off with a bit of fiddling.
To explain further, there are 4 clips facing down & 1 facing up so releasing the top one allows you to release the other 4 in one go.
 
You can see the backs of the potentiometers through holes in the circuit board but whether you’ll get enough cleaner into it from there I’m not sure.
To get to the front of the pots you’ll need to prise the board out.
It’s held by 5 lugs formed on the board.
Try springing the case with your thumbs and slipping suitable pieces of thick card packing alongside the lugs in turn rather than levering it out with a screwdriver.
The control knobs stay on the case, I can’t remember if they can go in half a turn out, but there is a small notch inside the hole of the pots that correspond to the pointers of the knobs.
 
Don’t go mad with the spray as it can seep between the layers of the digital display & cause black spots around the edges.
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