Author |
Topic: Overheating (Read 4721 times) |
|
Andycan
Full Member
I'm a YaBB newbie!
Posts: 565
|
 |
Overheating
« on: Sep 12th, 2011, 4:29pm » |
 Quote  Modify
|
Yesterday I drove 7 miles and my 2.0 scorpio started hissing water out of the header tank yet the gauge was on normal temp. I filled it up when today and drove a couple of miles only to find after 100 yards the gauge was upto normal and at the end of the journey the temp was just under the red yet the rad fans didn't come on and the header tank wasn't hissing.
It could be a airlock where I filled it up but don't know where the bleed points are. Then we have the gauge and rad fans playing up.
|
|
 IP Logged |
|
|
|
Simmo
Administrator
I'm an OAP !
Posts: 5508
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #1 on: Sep 12th, 2011, 5:19pm » |
Quote Modify
|
The first thing to do is try the 'Jonnycab' method if you think an air lock is the problem.Details Here
Don't forget there are two temperature sensors. One for the gauge and another for the engine management system.
|
|
IP Logged |
Now I'm an OAP
|
|
|
PJDavis
Senior Member
2 x 1995 Jag X300 3.2 / 4.0 (Henley) 1957 XK140
Posts: 1474
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #2 on: Sep 12th, 2011, 5:21pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Aye. I concur with Simmo. I changed my thermostat last year and it took ages to get rid of all the air from the system, just when I thought I'd got rid of it all, another load of bubbles appeared. 
|
|
IP Logged |
I love 'Movvy'
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
|
|
|
Simmo
Administrator
I'm an OAP !
Posts: 5508
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #3 on: Sep 12th, 2011, 5:26pm » |
Quote Modify
|
If you think the 'stat' is faulty I'd get a Ford one. I obtained a pattern part but it did not fit and just delayed a simple job.
|
|
IP Logged |
Now I'm an OAP
|
|
|
Andycan
Full Member
I'm a YaBB newbie!
Posts: 565
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #4 on: Sep 12th, 2011, 7:24pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Thanks guys I forgot to mention my abs light has come on as well at the same time but it is too windy to check anything at the moment.
My thoughts are with our members in Scotland with these high winds and I hope we all come out of it unscathed.
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
Andycan
Full Member
I'm a YaBB newbie!
Posts: 565
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #5 on: Sep 14th, 2011, 3:14pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Further update. On further inspection the headgasket has gone. It ticks over and runs ok but the temp goes through the roof after 1/2 mile at 30 mph.
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
leewar
Senior Member
I'm a YaBB newbie!
Posts: 1504
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #6 on: Sep 14th, 2011, 6:47pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Oh I know how you feel 
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
Mike H
Senior Member
Renault Clio
Posts: 2594
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #7 on: Sep 14th, 2011, 8:32pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Bummer. 
|
|
IP Logged |
Mike H
|
|
|
Andycan
Full Member
I'm a YaBB newbie!
Posts: 565
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #8 on: Sep 17th, 2011, 12:05pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Hi again I have a update on the update which is confusing me.
I decided to check it out again and found strange things happening. Before starting the water hoses feel as if they are full of air. After starting up it slowly warms up on tickover. The rad fans come on slow setting just before the temp gauge gets to normal the rad is warm and the water hoses are hot and hard. When the temp gauge gets to normal there is a smell of burning and then the rad fans go into overdrive and the rad goes very cold as if the aircon is cooling it. The rad fans stay on max speed and the rad stays cold until the gauge shows just under the red line which is when I turn the engine off. On tickover this process takes about 20 minutes.
I can't understand how the rad goes cold when the engine and water hoses are hot or why the rad gets warm and then goes stone cold. Could it be all the temp sensors have started recording the wrong temps? If so it doesn't explain the cold rad.
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
Matt
Senior Member
Manual'd and a 4.0 in the making
Posts: 2816
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #9 on: Sep 17th, 2011, 12:43pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Your thermo stat may be stuck shut
|
|
IP Logged |
 
FDS2000 Scans - Birmingham
|
|
|
Tompion
Administrator
1997 2.3 Ultima estate.
Posts: 2918
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #10 on: Sep 17th, 2011, 1:05pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Various thing could be going on, if the gasket has gone it could be pressurising the system. However if you don’t know for certain it has gone note the following.
The temp gauge uses a different sensor to the ECT (which controls the fans).
If there’s a wiring problem that effectively disconnects the ECT the fans come on full.
If the thermostat sticks it may overheat (especially if the matrix is blocked/partially blocked as the coolant only flows through the matrix when the stat is closed).
If you’ve only been refilling with water instead of 50/50 water/antifreeze the boiling point will be lower so a greater risk of steam pockets.
You could try leaving the stat out temporarily if you haven’t changed it yet.
|
|
IP Logged |
ABS multiplug wheel sensor pins MK IV or MK 20
|
|
|
Andycan
Full Member
I'm a YaBB newbie!
Posts: 565
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #11 on: Sep 17th, 2011, 8:29pm » |
Quote Modify
|
If the stat was stuck shut would the rad get hot until the fans come on? When the fans come on they come on slow at 1st and then after a few minutes they turn up to full blast.
The bolts on the stat housing are very rusty and I think they will break and I have been told if they do then it means I will need a new head.
The coolant is probably mainly water now as I didn't want to put antifreeze in till I was sure of the problem as it costs so much here and I spent £60 on antifreeze on my espace when it got a airlock that the garage couldn't get rid of so I did it myself and it took around a month.
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
Tompion
Administrator
1997 2.3 Ultima estate.
Posts: 2918
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #12 on: Sep 18th, 2011, 12:17pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Probably better to say the stat may be sticking rather than stuck.
You may have a blockage somewhere or possibly a faulty pump.
What happens if you run it from cold with the reservoir cap off?
Check the air vent hose to the reservoir. There’s quite a small hole in the reservoir I’ve found mine blocked a couple of times with bits from the matrix.
Try carefully tightening the stat bolts a little first, it sometimes gets them moving.
|
|
IP Logged |
ABS multiplug wheel sensor pins MK IV or MK 20
|
|
|
Mike H
Senior Member
Renault Clio
Posts: 2594
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #13 on: Sep 18th, 2011, 1:27pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Soak with penetrating fluid first and leave several hours, e.g. overnight.
See also How To Do Things about getting rid of an air lock.
Hoses soft, as if empty, then hard, when water is in them (presume that is the reason), suggests to me a lot of air may be in the system, and the water is not circulating properly, hence strange behaviour of fans (engine block getting hot because no water in it) and radiator (warm when water in it, cold when there isn't). I am just guessing.
|
|
IP Logged |
Mike H
|
|
|
Mike H
Senior Member
Renault Clio
Posts: 2594
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #14 on: Sep 18th, 2011, 1:33pm » |
Quote Modify
|
If it helps, last time I changed my coolant, could not be bothered finding drain plugs so instead took big hose off reservoir that goes down to bottom of engine, put a long plastic tube in it all the way down to the bottom and siphoned it out. Hose back on and refilled as normal, no problems.
|
|
IP Logged |
Mike H
|
|
|
Mike H
Senior Member
Renault Clio
Posts: 2594
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #15 on: Sep 18th, 2011, 1:37pm » |
Quote Modify
|
Appendix ~ the excess air may still be head gasket leak, but to be sure, need to be sure cooling system is properly filled up.
Or, if use method in How To Do Things all air should ultimately be expelled, but if keeps bubbling then it must be coming from somewhere.
|
|
IP Logged |
Mike H
|
|
|
Andycan
Full Member
I'm a YaBB newbie!
Posts: 565
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #16 on: Sep 18th, 2011, 10:44pm » |
Quote Modify
|
I will have a go at getting the bolts out of the thermostat housing tomorrow afternoon. By then they will have soaked in wd40 for 2 days.
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
Digger69
Newbie
I'm a YaBB newbie!
Posts: 7
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #17 on: Sep 19th, 2011, 12:05am » |
Quote Modify
|
Have you checked around the oil filler cap & dip stick? If the head has gone then you may detect water around these areas?
I got hold of a K series Freelander last week with a suspected head gasket problem with the same symptoms (bubling water in the header tank, header tank empty after 60 mile round trip, top hose hot, bottom hose cold, cold spots in rad, water temp gauge sitting at normal position).
I drained her (removed the hoses), did a rad flush, refilled & bled cooling systmem. Happy ending, air block & she is now fine.
With the Freelander there is two bleed valves (one on the hose feeding the head & another on the hose from the heater matrix).
I'd try that before doing anything else. Hopefully you will be as fortunate as me.
Fingers crossed!
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
Mike H
Senior Member
Renault Clio
Posts: 2594
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #18 on: Sep 19th, 2011, 10:22am » |
Quote Modify
|
on Sep 19th, 2011, 12:05am, Digger69 wrote:Have you checked around the oil filler cap & dip stick? If the head has gone then you may detect water around these areas?
|
|
Good tip, mixed with oil is like a creamy white sludge.
Quote:| drove 7 miles and my 2.0 scorpio started hissing water out of the header tank yet the gauge was on normal temp |
|
What happened before this? I mean had it been working OK up to that point, or had you changed something, like disturb the cooling system e.g. renewed coolant
|
|
IP Logged |
Mike H
|
|
|
Andycan
Full Member
I'm a YaBB newbie!
Posts: 565
|
|
Re: Overheating
« Reply #19 on: Sep 19th, 2011, 7:17pm » |
Quote Modify
|
There doesn't seem to be any water or gunk in the oil. I haven't touched anything under the bonnet apart from putting insulation around the engine loom wires and replacing the spark plugs about 4 months ago along with rear discs and pads.
I managed to get 1 bolt off the stat housing today but the heads on the other 2 are so corroded that they are smaller than the spanners so will need to think of a way to get them off. I am going to leave the stat out when I can get to it and flush the system out tomorrow if I get time. I am sure the pump is ok as the water was circulating around the header tank when the temp gauge was on normal.
It could be that the antifreeze had deteriorated thus the engine not cooling properly.
|
|
IP Logged |
|
|
|
|
Home
Help
Search
Members
Login
Reply
Send Topic
Print