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xr4s_r_ace
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Plastic bits in the sump
« on: Feb 27th, 2012, 7:55pm »
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Hi Guys, took the sump off to have a crack repaired (speed hump victim) and found two biggish pieces of brown plastic in the sump. The engine (24v bob) had started making a bit of a rattle on start up but immeadiately stops and runs sweet as a nut. Would i be right in thinking that its pieces of chain guide or might there be other underlying problems that have caused the problem. Any advice much appreciated.
Cheers pete.
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gozz
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #1 on: Feb 27th, 2012, 8:12pm »
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Certainly sounds like bits of chain guide,most 24v's have a little chain rattle on start up,you'd think if the guides were busted the rattle would be permanent,maybe the bits are from a previous repair job  Cool
            GOZZ.
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xr4s_r_ace
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #2 on: Feb 27th, 2012, 8:27pm »
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Ta for that. Would damaged guides cause chain rattle ?
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Matt
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #3 on: Feb 27th, 2012, 9:40pm »
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Yes and no, the bobs are known to rattle from the tensioners draining off
 
you need to sort the guides asap or risk a chain snap or damaged sprockets
 
burton power now sell the guides at around £20 a piece
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solarpanel
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #4 on: Feb 28th, 2012, 9:49pm »
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do the guides asap as mine failed and had to fit 6 new ex valves
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xr4s_r_ace
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #5 on: Feb 28th, 2012, 10:03pm »
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Yes it has to be done... Huh. Hassle i could have done well without, but hey ho onwards and upwards. Have took both intake manifolds off and have just sussed that maybe i did,nt have to, am i right?. On the plus side have found some broken breather T pieces. Will the water pump come off with the front casing or does it have to be removed...trying to save myself a bit of work.  
Cheers pete.  Undecided
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Matt
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #6 on: Feb 28th, 2012, 10:43pm »
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Yeah manifolds have to come off as it 10 times easier with the heads off rocker covers have to come off anyway
 
front cover should come off with the water pump still.attached but there are 3 bolts most people forget, theres one in each head at the front, little alen key typew and one in the V
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xr4s_r_ace
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #7 on: Mar 1st, 2012, 9:20pm »
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Nice one, thanks for that. Just been to local ford dealer and sump gasket no longer available...Gonna have to get wad punches and gasket paper out.
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Snoopy
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #8 on: Mar 2nd, 2012, 7:10am »
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Have you tried fordpartsuk and ask trevor porter if he can help  
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #9 on: Mar 2nd, 2012, 1:51pm »
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Try Specialised Engines or Burton power in Essex for parts as well.
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xr4s_r_ace
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #10 on: Mar 5th, 2012, 9:07pm »
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Cheers guys, nice one matt about the 3 bolts in the v. What a corking idea to put one in rear entry. Not much left of the engine to take apart now, found a damaged chain guide , hence the bits so it was,nt a waste of time. Bad news is the chains seem to be a bit baggy... Huh Gonna have to change em, any ideas where to source them, genuine ford at burton power £150+ each. Might take a link out and fit a spring link...lol
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Matt
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #11 on: Mar 5th, 2012, 10:31pm »
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Ive got a couple of old chains, ill dig them out and check them over
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xr4s_r_ace
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #12 on: Mar 5th, 2012, 10:38pm »
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Cheers matt, i,ll watch this space.  Smiley
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Dave2302
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #13 on: Mar 7th, 2012, 10:26am »
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They don't usually need chains or sprockets Wink
 
You do need to strip BOTH tensioners and very carefully clean the one way valves.
 
Also make sure the N/S one is the "modified" type the plunger must be the same length as the O/S !!
 
My N/S one wasn't despite my cars history saying the recall had been done  Angry
My Scorpio always had a slight brrrrp on a cold morning start Wink
 
Only came to light recently when I checked it over as the engine is now 4wd and going in a Puma  Grin
 
It is the one way valves that cause drain back, which causes rattle on start up, which causes broken guides...............In that order Wink
 
As said Burton Power or Specialised Engines sell the bits, including individual gaskets at sensible money.
 
HTH,
 
Regards Dave
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xr4s_r_ace
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Got an xr4 24v cossie BOB..But like scorps as well

   
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #14 on: Mar 7th, 2012, 7:24pm »
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Cheers Dave, have only got one tensioner off so far,but will deffo check that one out. The left hand chain is still under tension but there seems to be a lot of slack at the bottom end of the chain, think it could bite me on the bum if i dont change the chains at least. Got a decent price of £35 inc vat from eurocar parts for a pattern chain, it wont be the best but for the use the car gets it should do the job. Whats the story on how to re-fit the cover with the chain guides, is there a top tip on how to do it.  Cheers Pete.
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Tompion
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #15 on: Mar 7th, 2012, 9:02pm »
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Have you looked at the manuals here:
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/CosV6manual.htm
 
Or the rebuild pictures here:
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/24vrebuild.htm
 
Also
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/timingchain29.htm
 
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/engdata24v.htm
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xr4s_r_ace
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Got an xr4 24v cossie BOB..But like scorps as well

   
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #16 on: Mar 7th, 2012, 9:22pm »
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Excellent...ta for that.   Smiley
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xr4s_r_ace
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #17 on: Mar 7th, 2012, 9:31pm »
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Whats the special tool required for fitting the timing chain cover... Huh
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Tompion
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #18 on: Mar 7th, 2012, 10:34pm »
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I’ve had no dealings with the 24v so I don’t know if this is what you mean:
The list of special tools for the timing chain PDF doesn’t include 21–137 which it tells you to use on page 20.
 
It’s listed in the engine dismantle PDF as:
21–137
Oil seal installer/aligner
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Matt
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Re: Plastic bits in the sump
« Reply #19 on: Mar 7th, 2012, 11:10pm »
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Ive never used any special tool
 
i just keep the chain taught on the drive side and feed the guides past them. leave the tensioners out so that you dont accidently set them off
 
i fit the cover with the heads off, it can be a pain getting the heads on but i find it the most reliable
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