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Topic: Recently driving (Read 12569 times) |
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georgeodyphotos
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Recently driving
« on: Sep 18th, 2013, 12:03pm » |
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Getting an intermittent problem from the rear end of my 2.3 Ultima estate. I will be driving quite normally when a very loud rapid clonking noise will be heard, sometimes followed by a sound similar to an exhaust dropping down and dragging on the ground. It then disappears but then it is sometimes followed by a low droaning noise. Whatever can it be? There are no visible problems. My garage put it on the ramp and there was nothing to see. 
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Scorpio_Mike
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Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 V6 & 2.8 Sierra XR4i 4x4
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #1 on: Sep 18th, 2013, 12:23pm » |
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Check the rear wheel bearings - failure is not always obvious but needs to be checked asap  - common failure item on these cars.
Rapid clonking could also be a failing CV joint - is it more noticeable when going round a corner
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Jonnycab
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Former owner of 2.3 Ultima Facelift saloon
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #2 on: Sep 19th, 2013, 12:28am » |
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A dodgy wheel bearing will make an intermittent moaning noise to start with, which will very quickly get worse the hotter it gets, until it reaches a horrible sqealing/grinding sound. If the noise gets to this point then the whole hub will have to be replaced as the sqealing/grinding is the broken bearing grinding away at the hub.
A couple of ways to easily check it is a bearing......1) check the wheel centres after a run, as a bad bearing will really heat up the centre of the wheel (alot more than normal brake usage would)......2)when it starts making the noise, just pull up the handbrake a tad. If the noise goes away, then it is a bearing, as pulling up the handbrake will centralise the wheel & take the strain off the bearing.
If the wheel centre isn't getting hot & the noise doesn't go when pulling up the handbrake, then it could well be a CV joint. Although, from experience, CV joints tend to make a loud clicking noise rather than a clonking noise & I've never heard one moaning. Check the rubber gaiters on the CV joints, if one is split then it's a sure sign that water/dirt has got in has caused the CV joint to fail....P.S... they usually split at the driveshaft end where the metal securing ring is.
Hope this helps
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freddieboy
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #3 on: Sep 19th, 2013, 8:52am » |
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Yep, I had the same thing a couple of years ago. At the time the garage I used got hold of a second hand replacement, and it has been no problem ever since. Good luck, Fred
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georgeodyphotos
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #4 on: Sep 26th, 2013, 3:38pm » |
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Thanks fellas. I will take all your comments on board. The noise now, when it happens ( and it's getting more frequent ) is definitely a grinding noise. I will try the handbrake idea and feeling the wheel centre later this afternoon.
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georgeodyphotos
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #5 on: Oct 9th, 2013, 1:13pm » |
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Hi Guys. Now had new wheel bearing fitted. The hub HAD worn but my mechanic ran some lines of weld around the hub and ground them down until a tight fit was achieved.
All ok now but a new problem has occured. Only happens first thing in the morning but when trying to start first time, the engine cranks but doesn't fire. After several attempts it will fire but if I touch the throttle it stops. It's a bit like the old days when we had a choke and it wasn't engaged. Once it does start, if I let it tick over for a bit, I can then blip the throttle and all is well then for the rest of the day. Any ideas please?
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georgeodyphotos
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #6 on: Oct 23rd, 2013, 3:03pm » |
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Completely packed up now. AA man says wiring loom to injectors broken. Hoping autoelectrician can have a look soon. 
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PJDavis
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2 x 1995 Jag X300 3.2 / 4.0 (Henley) 1957 XK140
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #7 on: Oct 23rd, 2013, 6:13pm » |
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I suspect the infamous injector loom. I'm not sure whether you can still get them new, I think from Germany, but a lot, lot, of money. Best bet is to get a reasonable one and do a very patient 'patch-up' job. Or take your broken one and copy it, an even longer job! Sorry to hear your poor news.
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I love 'Movvy'
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
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TiberiuS
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Ex. 1996 2.3 Ultima - RIP P789 KHJ
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #8 on: Oct 24th, 2013, 12:24pm » |
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Hi,
Yes, I agree about injector loom - mine went a similar way back in 2006 - starting with occasional misfire which gradually got worse, then one day the no start/no idle issue you describe.
I ended up making a new loom using silicone wire and Gremfix sleeving, there was a thread and some photos on the forum somewhere. I replaced the whole thing though to be honest it was only the wiring at the top of the engine (the part which feeds the injectors, coils, EGR valve etc.) that was crumbling - like I say, that was 7 years ago and the average car is probably in much worse condition now, maybe your loom is crumbling in more places.
As a temporary fix, you could try wrapping all the wiring you can get to in insulating tape and see if that helps, and go from there.
I've no idea whether Ford still supply the looms, making one yourself isn't too difficult, more time consuming really - you just need to be able to solder and make a note of everything as it is before you start.
Hope this helps.
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Bruce - '07 Jaguar XKR coupe, '95 Jaguar XJ Sport 4.0, '82 Ford Capri 2.0 Ghia, '15 Honda Civic (sloooooww..)
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Simmo
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #9 on: Oct 24th, 2013, 2:03pm » |
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You might findThis articlehelpful. Bob has since done a much more comprehensive job so he may will be able to offer more words of wisdom.
Another firm which may help is Here. You may be able to cut the wire,feed the tubing over it and then solder the joint.
Wire is available from This firm.
The major problem is keeping the old connectors. The idea is to cut close to the unit and solder the new wire on as the connectors are no longer available and the ones shown in the catalogues are NOT compatible. Believe me this has been explored fully 
This old post may help as well.
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Mike H
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Renault Clio
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #10 on: Oct 25th, 2013, 11:35am » |
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These wires get roasted by the cylinder head until the plastic insulation goes baked hard and drops off. Check also the wiring to the ignition coils, under the centre plastic cover, these are usually the first to go so if your injector wires are shot these deffo will be! Unless been fixed earlier (?)
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Mike H
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Tompion
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1997 2.3 Ultima estate.
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #11 on: Oct 26th, 2013, 2:54pm » |
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on Oct 24th, 2013, 2:03pm, Simmo wrote:You might findThis articlehelpful. Bob has since done a much more comprehensive job so he may will be able to offer more words of wisdom.
Another firm which may help is Here. You may be able to cut the wire,feed the tubing over it and then solder the joint.
Wire is available from This firm.
The major problem is keeping the old connectors. The idea is to cut close to the unit and solder the new wire on as the connectors are no longer available and the ones shown in the catalogues are NOT compatible. Believe me this has been explored fully
This old post may help as well. |
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Mike,
I know you looked into this with vehicle-wiring-products & they couldn’t find a match for the injector plugs which is strange as they list Junior-Timer-housings.
I did a search & that appears to be the correct plug group as it comes up when you search for Bosch EV1 (an injector type).
Only way to be sure was to buy one so I ordered this from BrandsHatchPerformance on ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121185843248
Other places do them pre assembled with wire tails.
It came today & does fit the coils, injectors, IAC etc.
On the 2.3, 3 of the injector plugs are moulded into the plastic box so it would need modifying or just changing the crimp connections.
Dave
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Scorpio_Mike
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Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 V6 & 2.8 Sierra XR4i 4x4
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #12 on: Oct 26th, 2013, 3:51pm » |
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Those connectors also fit the sensors on the now-rather-vintage Bosch K-Jetronic system 
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Star sign is Scorpio !
Sierra XR4i's are great...especially when fitted with 4WD
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Mike H
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Renault Clio
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #13 on: Oct 26th, 2013, 4:35pm » |
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What I did was reuse the original plugs, cut the wires short (which were just bare strands), scrape all the strands all around with a penknife blade until shiny, dip into liquid flux, solder tin, and solder new wires on. Then sleeved with heatshrink sleeving, and then again overall with high temperature sleeving (glassfibre based or similar).
HTH
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Mike H
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TiberiuS
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Ex. 1996 2.3 Ultima - RIP P789 KHJ
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #14 on: Oct 26th, 2013, 6:12pm » |
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Hi guys,
Not to get too deep into this, but be careful not to solder the new wires right close to the connector, this can create a stress point which can break if it is flexed around too much - especially if the original wire that you connect to is already corroded. I'm a qualified electronic engineer and know this can happen - there are actually standards which prohibit soldering things like power connections inside electronics systems because of this.
If you absolutely need to reuse the old connectors, try to leave at least an inch and preferably 2 inches of original wire and then cover up to the connector shell with adhesive lined heatshrink when the new wire is soldered on. Also, if the old wire is corroded near to the connector, throw it away and use one in better condition.
I'm not saying it's the wrong way to do it (it's how I did mine, you don't have much choice unless you can get new connectors), just that you need to be careful not to create stress points which break when the wires are flexed and cause more problems.
About those connectors, I'm sure GM used that type at some point? Also, my XJ uses quite a few of them and in some places they connect to Delphi and Lucas branded components - might be a long shot, but maybe they're still listed in one of those companies' catalogues still?
Bruce.
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Bruce - '07 Jaguar XKR coupe, '95 Jaguar XJ Sport 4.0, '82 Ford Capri 2.0 Ghia, '15 Honda Civic (sloooooww..)
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georgeodyphotos
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #15 on: Oct 29th, 2013, 4:30pm » |
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Thanks guys. Had auto electrician on the case. He carefully stripped out the wires feeding the injectors and the coils and replaced with new wiring, crimping the connectors rather than soldering. All looks very neat but the car still won't start. He has plugged in his computer and that doesn't show any error codes, so he says all should be well.
The engine turns over and attempts to fire once and then there's nothing. Just reeks of fuel. Getting desperate now. Have persuaded him to come back tomorrow and have another go at it. 
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Scorpio_Mike
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Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 V6 & 2.8 Sierra XR4i 4x4
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #16 on: Oct 29th, 2013, 4:40pm » |
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Don't know what your electrician is costing you but it might just be worth buying a replacement fuel cut off loom - they are still available for about £160+VAT from FordPartsUK
http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/c/scorpio_electrical_281/
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Star sign is Scorpio !
Sierra XR4i's are great...especially when fitted with 4WD
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Mike H
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Renault Clio
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #17 on: Nov 2nd, 2013, 2:51pm » |
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Injectors working now but no sparks so too rich? As per choke comparison, won't go once flooded
(?)
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Mike H
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lesterlad aka Rodders
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2.3 Ghia x Estate (Manual)
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #18 on: Nov 2nd, 2013, 10:14pm » |
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on Oct 29th, 2013, 4:30pm, georgeodyphotos wrote:
The engine turns over and attempts to fire once and then there's nothing. Just reeks of fuel. |
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Had exactly the same with my 2.3 nearly 2yrs ago.
New loom sorted it.
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georgeodyphotos
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Re: Recently driving
« Reply #19 on: Nov 5th, 2013, 2:54pm » |
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In desperation called out AA again who diagnosed cam shaft sensor. Hope he is right as am picking up one today.
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