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Topic: ABS Controller Repair, Help (Read 5307 times) |
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Nunnspoet
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ABS Controller Repair, Help
« on: Aug 30th, 2014, 1:12pm » |
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Can somebody tell me how to tell the difference between the two different Controllers please. My Cossie is a P reg Ultima Estate. Also a quick guide on how to remove the Controller from the car for soldering? Where is the Board situated, I'm guessing under the Pump in the Engine bay, do any brake lines need to be disconnected? Thanks for any advice.
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Tenfut
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #1 on: Aug 30th, 2014, 4:42pm » |
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Hi The controller is fairly easy to remove although might result in some scarred knuckles. No need to disconnect any brake pipes. I got mine off in about 50 minutes. (24v). Click on the car at the top of this page then on Search/map on the left then scroll down to "ABS Modulator" and all the instructions for removal / replacement are there. As regards the soldering, Tompion is your man for advice I had a repaired one ready to go straight on HTH Tony
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Simmo
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #2 on: Aug 30th, 2014, 7:29pm » |
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The details are Here
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Nunnspoet
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #3 on: Aug 30th, 2014, 9:07pm » |
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Thanks guys, we saw the page for soldering, then eventually found the page for the ABS modulator which describes how to get to the board itself! Anyway, done a few tests and now getting B1342 which seems to be an "instrument panel ECU" fault. So, not sure if this really means the ABS controller OR the actual instrument panel itself!? The airbag light is also playing up so it points to the instrument panel but would value your advice. Thanks, Mike & Graham
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amigafan2003
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #4 on: Aug 30th, 2014, 9:47pm » |
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You can get dry solder joints on the dashboard too. Worth taking the instrument panel out and checking for continuity.
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Tompion
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #5 on: Aug 31st, 2014, 12:14am » |
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Take a look here: http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/dtcode.htm From that you'll see that as the code begins with 1 you need to be careful that you look at the correct manufacturer & model codes. Searching the net for the code (for other vehicles) comes up as various faults not necessarily ABS so chances are you’ll struggle to find a definite answer. Did the reader you used say "instrument panel ECU" or is that what you’ve found via a search, if you found it in an old Scorpio thread about diagnostics on a non-Scorpio instrument panel then I should ignore it as that was for a different car. What reader did you use, the obd-2 lead usually gives a brief description of the fault. If it were an instrument panel fault that caused the light to come on I would have thought the ABS would still function. You could try unplugging the multiplug & reseating it just in case it’s a bad connection. It’s held with a bolt that draws it off of the controller. Make sure it seats fully when you put it back but don’t go mad just nip it up. The ABS codes are stored in the ABS module so if you check for codes with it unplugged & no longer get a B1342 that would suggest it’s not the instrument panel. Not sure if you can read codes from the panel anyway.
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GrahamT
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #6 on: Aug 31st, 2014, 1:02am » |
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Thanks very much Dave. Mike, my memory, tsch (dont say anything!) Did it say "instrument panel ECU" on the alex peper lead? I think it did. The same code showed up on my ELM327 reader also, but didn't give the description. (or was that the other way around?! ) Anyway, next step, check for ABS codes again, should show B1342 on the enhanced page, then try again with the big connector disconnected. Good luck!
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Tompion
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #7 on: Aug 31st, 2014, 9:31am » |
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Having slept on it I’m pretty sure you can ignore the dash as it’s simply somewhere to put the bulb & uses no components other than the tracks from the connector to the bulb. By comparison the Airbag warning lamp uses some basic circuitry that means a poor connection causes the light to stay on. A bad connection with the ABS however causes the light to stay off. The very late cars had PATS built into the dash so it’s possible they’re different but I doubt it. You should find if you unplug the ABS multiplug the light will stay on (because a switch in the plug turns it on) whereas I think (unable to verify on my car) if you leave it plugged in and pull the smaller of the 3 ABS fuses the light won’t come on at all & you won’t be able to read ABS codes.
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Nunnspoet
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #8 on: Sep 1st, 2014, 8:23am » |
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Thanks folks . I am very much encouraged by all your support. Yup Graham, it did say that, and, I will give it a couple of days before I re-read the codes as she needs to complete a"drive cycle"before she registers codes. I didn't get anything done yesterday but hope to fiddle about today. Great advice Tompion, I will start by unplugging the multiplug. We did try the ABS and it did not function. Fingers crossed Mike
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Nunnspoet
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #9 on: Sep 1st, 2014, 10:42am » |
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Thanks folks . I am very much encouraged by all your support. Yup Graham, it did say that, and, I will give it a couple of days before I re-read the codes as she needs to complete a"drive cycle"before she registers codes. I didn't get anything done yesterday but hope to fiddle about today. Great advice Tompion, I will start by unplugging the multiplug. We did try the ABS and it did not function. Fingers crossed Mike
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GrahamT
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #10 on: Sep 1st, 2014, 11:41am » |
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Mike, the three fuses (I think!!) are Fuse No. 27 in the central fuse box and Fuses 46 and 47 in the battery fuse box. We only checked one and I think it was the wrong fuse anyway!!
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #11 on: Sep 1st, 2014, 2:56pm » |
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If you're doing any testing remember the thicker wires (orange/yellow??) fed by the larger 2 fuses 46&47 are permanently live. Dave
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Nunnspoet
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #12 on: Sep 1st, 2014, 5:06pm » |
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Thanks Graham and Dave. I unplugged, cleaned, re-connected the multiplug, turned on the ign.. The lights went out . Went for a drive aaannnd 3miles down the road on came the ABS and TRAction control lights. Back home I moved various cables about (Ain't got a clue really) and turned on ign. lights went out - 10secs. came on again. That seems to be the pattern except that sometimes I can drive a little way before the lights illuminate. It is all hit and miss. I am led to believe there is a short somewhere around the Controller area, but where to look is a mystery and now it's RAINING When I get a chance Graham I will check those fuses. And thanks for the warning Dave. By the way Graham, the Apple pie is delicious. Ta And I have just picked up a new brake handbrake cable Mike
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #13 on: Sep 5th, 2014, 6:58am » |
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Update. After a good drive down to and all about Weymouth and Portland, beautiful day , I did a Pepper's OBD 11 lead scan yesterday and got the following codes from the "Enhanced" section: C1145 Wheel Right Front Sensor Circuit Failure. C1259 Speed Wheel Right Front Comparison Failure. C1178 Speed Wheel Left Rear Coherence Fault. I hope this is of use. I hav'nt got around to checking those fuses yet, but hope to get it done today. Mike
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #14 on: Sep 5th, 2014, 10:39am » |
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Mike, Probably no point in checking fuses given the codes you’re getting now. I take it the light is still on? - codes will remain even when the light goes out. It’s looking more like a wiring issue, I’ve seen people reporting issues with the wiring in the section towards the multiplug. It’s possible you could have introduced the codes whilst looking for the problem so clear them & see what returns. It’s not obvious on the OBD11 lead how to clear codes, so if you don’t know, whilst you have codes/enhanced open also open status/enhanced (where the clear button is located). The clear button will reflect what you’ve selected in codes/enhanced. Dave
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #15 on: Sep 5th, 2014, 5:36pm » |
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Dave, Really good advice once again, thank you. I will have a "play" around the wiring. The lights behave as they should when the outside Temp. cools. Then after a short drive, usually 10 - 100yds. they come on. Though again,at other times, the outside temp does not matter. It's all a toss of the Dice. Never mind we will get there Mike
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #16 on: Sep 6th, 2014, 8:10am » |
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Mike. There might be a clue in the 10 -100yards. I think, and hope Tompion will agree with me, that the actual motor does not cut in until you reach a certain speed. If you think about it there would be no need for ABS at a very low speed?
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #17 on: Sep 6th, 2014, 4:51pm » |
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When you turn on the ignition a basic test is carried out – little more than checking something’s at the end of the wires (if you removed a wheel sensor and connected the two wires together it would pass). Once you drive off and reach a certain speed (around 20 mph) the sensors are checked for output and some sort of test is carried out on the motor but whether it actually runs I don’t know. If anything fails the light will come on. As you’ve had different faults after moving the multiplug my guess is it’s a wiring issue. It is of course worth checking those sensors for faults. The coherency fault (incoherent signal) could be caused by magnetic particles on that rear sensor or sensor ring, too big an air gap between it & the sensor ring or bad wiring. Magnetic particles on a rear sensor are quite common & can be caused if the sensor ring hits the sensor as a wheel bearing fails. The face of the sensor should be flat but even if it is concave it could be from a previous bearing failure & a concave one will usually be OK unless very worn. When I was playing with Simmo’s faulty controller I managed to get layered faults – I couldn’t see the underlying faults I’d introduced until I fixed the fault I could see. That’s one of the reasons I suggest you clear the faults in case they were redundant ones hidden by the B1342 code you started with. Its faults that cause the light to come on during the rolling test not codes (they don't have to be cleared to pass) hence it’s a good idea to clear them & see what remains after the static test or comes back after the rolling test.
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #18 on: Sep 9th, 2014, 8:44am » |
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Excellent food for thought and action. I hope to clear the codes this a.m. and have a wiggle about. My gut feeling is a fault in the wiring. After a wiggle about she went for 3 miles faultlessly before the lights came on. My thinking is that when I move the wires/cables I "unshort" the shorting wire and that the wiring returns to its "shorting" position after a short time. My main worry is that I do something wrong and end up with this car off the road as I need an Automatic to get about. My other Scorp is up on a hoist at my local garage, hopefully it will be all done and dusted by the weekend I could give the sensor rings a good blast with the hosepipe. What do you think? We will get there. Mike
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Re: ABS Controller Repair, Help
« Reply #19 on: Sep 9th, 2014, 9:49am » |
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Ookaaay. I have just re-read the enhanced ABS and Traction Control fault codes: C 1145 SWSRFICE. Speed wheel sensor right front RF input circuit failure. C 1148 SWSRFCF. Speed wheel sensor RF Coherency fault. C 1259 SWRF. Speed wheel RF Coherency failure. A little different, I think, and to my mind all pointing to the Front Right sensor having failed or the wiring to have a short somewhere. Will the sensor from a 2.9 Ultima Estate fit my Cossie okay? Mike
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