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a900one
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Abs light
« on: Aug 31st, 2019, 7:08pm »
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The abs light comes on at app 15 mph + the traction ligh,. It seems to pass the startup test. I have checked the back sensors and they look ok, I have cleaned them as a bit of rust was on them, they have the same resistance as well. I have also checked the tyre pressures, and they are right. My Foxwell scanner wont read the codes, so I am working in the dark on this. I have not checked the fronts yet. Its a 1998 cosworth.
 
Cheers Gerald.
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brds
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #1 on: Aug 31st, 2019, 9:41pm »
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You're probably correct that it is a brake sensor failing the rolling test. To save you time on the analysis, Forscan with a laptop or tablet or phone and an ELM 327 will give you the codes. It also has a comprehensive test of the ABS.
Bob
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Torbayboy
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #2 on: Sep 1st, 2019, 7:56am »
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Hi Gerald, had this on our late 2.3 estate, (the rolling test is at 15 mph as you mention)it had been stood for 6+ months and on regular use the car has settled and cured itself, only ever happens occasionally.
 
Is your abs still working with the lights on? and is the car in reguular use?  
 
One final things are all the tyres same size and at same p s i as there is a 2% tolerance on the traction control and that will light it all up, had a mix in mine when I changed to black rims, put all the tyres back to same size--problem solved.
 
HTH  Roy Smiley Smiley
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a900one
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #3 on: Sep 3rd, 2019, 5:55pm »
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Hi Roy
The car is used every week at some point so was not that. I may have sorted it, I started to check the front sensors and I could not get the plug to go back in the socket, now the light wont go off. I had to go to the scrape yard to see if I could find a socket and found transits use the same for the ABS. I have now fitted it and the light has gone off, may have been the problem all along, so happy days.
Gerald
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a900one
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #4 on: Sep 5th, 2019, 5:39pm »
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Its back on again and a scan by a mate has hi-lighted a pump fault and o/s front sensor fault.  If the pump was faulty  that would keep the light on on starting ?, or am I wrong with that. As the sensors wont come out without destroying them and they checkout ok I am not sure what to do. Is it possible to clean the ring and sensor by removing the cap over the wheel bearing nut Huh.
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #5 on: Sep 5th, 2019, 8:26pm »
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If the code was C1095 Hydraulic Pump Motor Circuit Failure it is probably faulty solder joints in the controller.
 
The sensor code could be old if it was faulty before you changed the plug - did your mate try and clear the codes?
 
You can clean the sensor ring by removing the cap.
 
With ABS you can tie yourself in knots with when the light comes on cleaning sensors etc the only real way is to use a code reader, it's well worth buying a cheap ELM 327 as mentioned by brds either USB or Bluetooth - assuming you have something to link it to.
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brds
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #6 on: Sep 6th, 2019, 10:11am »
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As I mentioned above, Forscan has a separate stand-alone test for the ABS which includes running the pump for a second - you can hear it run if all OK. If you get the C1095 code there will be plenty of advice here as to how to best fix that.
Forscan also has a nifty stand-alone test for the fans which is handy as otherwise the high speed hardly ever gets to run.
Bob
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a900one
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #7 on: Sep 6th, 2019, 10:40am »
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I think it is a fault with the controller after reading about it in the fault finding section, and is most likely to be the solder joints.  The information he got on his scanner was the part that was faulty eg pump motor failure, o/s front abs sensor wireing fault, I did not see a code number, it was done in a hurry as he was short of time. He also did not clear any codes. I will get Forscan as I need to be able to read codes etc. I checked out the post in How to do things on the controller repair and the pictures have gone, can they be put back. Has anyone got a spare I could buy Mk20 with traction control.
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brds
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #8 on: Sep 6th, 2019, 1:22pm »
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You can easily check for the ABS pump problem with a multimeter. Unplug the pump from the controller and measure its resistance. It should be 2.5ohms. If that is OK, measure each of the 2 output pins of the controller to earth. The L/H pin of the controller (looking from the wing) should be 183K ohms and the R/H pin should be Earth. If either is open-circuit, you have cracked solder joints on the circuit board inside - a common problem.
You can then either change the complete ABS unit or take it out and try and mend it - possible (there's advice how to do it on the forum) but an awful lot of very messy work to disconnect/reconnect all the pipes, take the controller apart, put everything back and bleed the whole system.
I once did all this and messed up the thread on a connector so had to buy a replacement, only to find that the replacement had the same problem. So, do not buy a replacement without checking it first!
At that point I decided I had nothing to loose by just warming up the O/C pins with a clean soldering iron for 1 minute to cause the solder joint inside to re-make. You just have to be careful not to apply too much sideways pressure or you will disturb the pin alignment as the plastic around it softens.
This may seem extreme but having seen inside the controller on the old unit I knew it was fairly safe.  
Reconnected and tested with Forscan – pump ran for a second and test was all OK. (Had an initial minor problem with R/H earth connector slipping up inside its housing and not making contact so beware of that).  
Then road tested - All OK.  
I suggest anybody with a C1095 does the simple 10 minute resistance checks above and if the pins look O/C, try warming them up as I did. You have nothing to loose at that point and could save an awful lot of time, work, grief and money.
Bob
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a900one
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #9 on: Sep 6th, 2019, 5:26pm »
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Thanks Bob for the information, I checked the controller and got the values you put. I had another go at reading the codes with my Foxwell meter, and after entering the vin number, it will read the car and run the pump,so the controller is ok. I also found my multimeter leads had a fault,so will need to check values again with new leads.
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brds
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #10 on: Sep 6th, 2019, 6:03pm »
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Very good news indeed! Just be wary for a C1095 coming back as you may have only temporarily moved a loose pin connection in the circuit board - this fault can be problematic as it does tend to come & go.
If you think you have a wheel sensor problem, they should measure 1100 ohms.
If you spin the wheel you should get a small ac voltage. When I last checked mine the fronts were both 0.4V ac for half-a-spin. The exact value depends on how fast you spin them. You can get technical with a scope looking for a wave-shape but a meter reading should be good enough.
Bob
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Tompion
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #11 on: Sep 7th, 2019, 1:23am »
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Codes will remain after a fault is rectified they will eventually clear after a certain number of cycles. The only way to be certain what's active is to clear them & see what comes back.
 
I assume it's a MK1V (not MK20).
 
I wouldn't heat the pins but that's up to you.
 
People say you can get the controller off without disconnecting the pipes - not had to remove that version of controller myself so not tried it.
 
Sent you a PM.
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Simmo
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #12 on: Sep 7th, 2019, 8:45am »
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Tompion, Sir.  You have a PM and email. Grin
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Tompion
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #13 on: Sep 7th, 2019, 11:07am »
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Thanks Mike - I think Grin
 
The how to do things pictures about code C1095 have now been updated.
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Pegasus
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #14 on: Sep 13th, 2019, 1:50pm »
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I get this sometimes - always in summer (hot/dry) when I've pulled away over something dodgy like gravel. Usually disappears after a few runs and always after rain.  Huh
 
Thankfully the MOT is in November.
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PJDavis
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #15 on: Sep 13th, 2019, 5:42pm »
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The model of Jaguar I have (X300 and X330) have the same controllers as the Scorpio except they have Jaguar scrolled on them.   Unfortunately the controller is mounted in such a way that one must remove it completely which upsets the braking system.   I've done it twice now, once with each car, I had one controller repaired by (you-know-who) many moons ago, and repaired one myself just following the instructions on here.   The controller can be tested by just plugging it into the system and lying it to one side.    I was only able to do this because of help from the usual people on here.
Peter
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1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
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a900one
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #16 on: Sep 13th, 2019, 6:00pm »
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Yesterday I went 30 miles with the light on and on the way back it was off. The sensor tests ok and puts out a voltage when you turn the road wheel, and the controller pins are ok. As the light goes off when the ignition is turn on it will pass mot as it is, due next month. Peter, do you think the jag unit will fit the scorp.
Gerald.
 
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PJDavis
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #17 on: Sep 18th, 2019, 5:42pm »
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The electrical part of the unit from early Jaguar X300, and X330, both 3.2 and 4 litre is a straight swap.   The pump is slightly different.   However, there is no advantage to be had on cost.
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1995 Jaguar XJ6 X300 3.2 (Henley)
1995 Jaguar XJ6 X330 4.0 (Dopey)
1957 Jaguar XK140 USA (converted to RHD, and to have fitted Mk10 420G Engine with BW 65 Auto Trans)
a900one
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #18 on: Oct 25th, 2019, 9:59pm »
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The problem seems to have been the o/s front sensor, now changed, as the light now has stayed off for a few trips.
It passed the mot with no problems, as now no road test so it would not come on, who remembers when they put a brake test meter on the floor and took the car for a road test.
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Torbayboy
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Re: Abs light
« Reply #19 on: Oct 26th, 2019, 8:43am »
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I remember when the local Ford garage proved to me the handbrake wasn't working on one side in the MOT by driving it at speed in their car park and looking for the skd marks on the floor (and drivers seat-it was a small car park Wink) & in a 1500 Anglia (with NO seat belts and No screen washers), even the heater was an option at that time!
 
No more Anglias now all botched-like mine was, need a comfy hotel room to drive around in!
Roy
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