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   Engine cuts out when after 20 min as soon it warms
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podge
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Engine cuts out when after 20 min as soon it warms
« on: Nov 10th, 2019, 11:40am »
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My Scorpio is still in the garage - cuts out when warm. to date a petrol pump - crankshaft sensor has been fitted wires in the engine bay have been insulated  and the garage has run out of ideas - It looks like I will have to say goodbye to my beloved Scorpio.
This year alone I have spent near on £2,000, pound  - Water pump, thermostat,new battery,  4 new tyres and welding on the sills.
Can anyone come up with a solution to get the Scorpio running again.
Paul.
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1997 - 2.3i scorpio ultima saloon. (Old codger with a new toy)
Torbayboy
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Re: Engine cuts out when after 20 min as soon it w
« Reply #1 on: Nov 10th, 2019, 12:33pm »
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Found this thread,
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Problems;action= display;num=1179604233;start=0
 
Seems some similarities there, and has a happy ending Roll Eyes
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Cosworth Scorpio only 46 on the road now NOW down to 42.
fix-and-foxi
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1996 Scorpio 2.0 16V Estate

   
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Re: Engine cuts out when after 20 min as soon it w
« Reply #2 on: Nov 13th, 2019, 9:59pm »
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Hi,
 
is the problem solved?
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fix-and-foxi
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1996 Scorpio 2.0 16V Estate

   
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Re: Engine cuts out when after 20 min as soon it w
« Reply #3 on: Nov 14th, 2019, 9:05pm »
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Hi,
 
at the end of the 80th I have Opel Monza 3.0 GSE. The car was driving by my wife in East-Germany (after falling the wall). At this time she has to organized sale-events and so she drives hundred of km each day. But we live in Cologne, nearly 700km far away.
 
Once the car goes down, the engine died after 15-20 km. If it was cold, the engine starts again for less than 15km, after cooling for 10km and so on. Because I was in hospital in cologne, she was very unsure what to do. The car was in different garages, also the ADAC tried to find the failure. All were specialists. Replace the engine, the EEC, replace the fuel-pump....that was what the specialists want to do -for horrorfying money.
 
I let the car bring to me to Cologne via ADAC. Two weeks later it was in my own garage. I opened the engine bonnet, and my first sight goes to the green wire, the wire which connect the ignition distributor to the ignition coil. The wire-plug at the ignition coil was corroded. There are up to 10A needed to support the ignition-coil, and therefore the corroded wire gets hot, the copper combusted and gets unconducted.
(sorry for my english - my native language is german).
 
I cut the wire, contaced it with a new plug, and my Monza drives for further years.
 
What I mean: The failure you are described, is mostly simple.
That my experience to over 40 years of repairing...
 
What can you do by yourself?
 
As the link above there are to control the function of the ignition and the fuel.  
 
Fuel control is simple. Start the engine, wait until it will dies, dismount the spark plugs and look how they are apperar.
 
1) If they are black and wet, than there is too much fuel. And it smells at fuel.
If wet, dry the spark-plugs, make it clean, mount them and start the engine. Post what happend.
 
2) If they are brown/grey and dry, its not enough fuel.
 
If dry, mount the spark plugs, and start the engine, if necessary with additionaly "start pilot -gas bottle".  
If it runs with extern gas, its a to low fuel problem.
 
But I think its an electrical problem. The engine died because a electrical contact failured if the wire gets hot. It gets hot because of corrosion or mechanical defect.  
 
Testing the spark plugs extern is in this case mostly not sufficient. Because they works under atmosphere pressure easilier than under compression pressure.
 
I think its better to check the voltage and ampere by the wires, which support the engine coils.
 
Disconnect the plug of one engine coil, check the contacts, split the wires (there are two?).  
If so connect, a voltage measure instrument (parallel) to both wires (+-), connect the plug and start the engine. If it runs, check the voltage until the engine died.  
 
To measure the ampere, the measuring instrument has to connect in line of the pos. (+)wire.
 
Be sure, there a 10A possible. One person start the engine, the other check the ampere measurering and the instrument (caution -some instruments give up, if the ampere are to high.).
 
When the engine died without loss voltage or ampere we try another check.
 
.
 
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