Click to return to main site

Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register.
Jun 30th, 2024, 8:19pm


Balance: £6.65
Home Home Help Help Search Search Members Members Login Login
Ford Scorpio Forum« 24v Manual Conversion »
   Ford Scorpio Forum
   General
   How to do things!
(Moderators: admin, Highlander, scorpio_man, Simmo, Baz)
   24v Manual Conversion
« Previous topic | Next topic »
Pages: 1  Send Topic Send Topic Print Print
   Author  Topic: 24v Manual Conversion  (Read 14388 times)
Matt
Senior Member
****




Manual'd and a 4.0 in the making

   
View Profile Email

Posts: 2816
24v Manual Conversion
« on: Sep 25th, 2010, 7:59pm »

As it seems a lot of people wish to convert their 24v's to manual transmission I’m getting a lot of pm's asking various question about different aspects
 
As those who have pm'd me will know I have not kept the info to myself! However since this seems to be the new thing to do atm I though I better give a rundown of parts, my own personal setup and the wiring modifications I performed.
 
Firstly though let me say that this is just based on my findings and I do not guarantee the susses I had
 
Mechanical Parts needed
 
Non Scorpio
 
V6 MT75 gearbox bell housing obtained from either a Granada or sierra 4x4
 
2.9 v6 flywheel again from above vehicles
 
Starter motor again from above vehicles is preferable for 'bolt on' application
 
Pedal box and bearing arm if going for a cable clutch
 
Clutch unit (mine is escort cosworth however I feel this is not up to the job and should be replaced with a 2.9 unit)
 
Scorpio Related
 
A 2WD MT75 gearbox preferably a TD or late 2.3
 
Prop shaft again preferably from a TD
 
Pedal box and all hydraulic equipment Inc brake fluid reservoir from a manual Scorpio (for hydraulic clutch setup - this is my setup) NOTE! the bracket on the brake vacumme has to be flipped 180 degrees to get the correct off set for the pedals, i have taken some pics which will be given on request!
 
If using the hydraulic clutch option, your v6 bell housing will need 3 blobs of alloy weld added around the main input shaft nut so that the hydraulic thrust bearing can be bolted to the casting; also the main nut from the 2wd box must be used as this centres the bearing!
 
I’m not going to tell you how to bolt the bits and pieces together as 1. It’s fairly obvious once you have all the bits and 2. I’m assuming that considering your even reading this you have some mechanical skills.
 
Now for the hardest bit, the wiring, as I was doing a straight swap auto to manual I had the auto box to take apart and pinch some parts out of for measurement and in the case of the EPC solenoid wiring back into the system
 
On the auto box range selector switch you will have a row of 4 wires in a line and a row with 2 in the middle
 
The row with 4 wires, the outer 2 are the start inhibit, just chop and join these two together, the middle 2 wires are the reverse switch connection
 
The row with 2 wires is the engine control, my wire colours were Brown/yellow and white/black, this needs a resistance of 737R between it (simulating the neutral position in the range switch)
 
So  
 
Start - 0  
  Rev - 0 - 0 - eng
  Rev - 0 - 0 - eng    --- range selector plug
Start - 0
 
Now you have to sort the solenoid plug which is the square shaped one
 
This one is a little tricky but if you hold the plug so that the catch part is on the right pin one is bottom right and pin 16 top left
 
Pin 16
V
0 0 0 0 pin 4
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0   catch side
0 0 0 0 pin 1
^
pin 13
 
Right then
 
EPC (use the solenoid out the box or a power relay) uses pins 11 and 12
 
Temp pins 4 and 8 - use a resistor can’t remember the value of hand but I think it was around 4 K ohms
 
Lock up pins 1 and 5 again use a resistor 8.7 Ohm
 
Then the shift sols
 
Pins 7 , 9 , 14, 16 are the one side of the relays (use the Yellow ones out the fuse box) and pin 10 is the common
 
That the main lot sorted
 
there’s a little bit to do around the selector switch, just link the buzzer out for the not in park buzzer, leave the O/D switch open, and then I pulled the wiring out for the winter mode but left the eco and sport switch in as these may have an effect on the fuelling but no one really knows lol  
 
I made up a little resistor board for the resistor related parts, for a small fee i could make up another but will only be made on weekends  
 
Right I think that just about covers it, however if you have any question please feel free to PM me (making sure you use a capital M)  
 
My car has now done over 1500 miles since this was carried out and ive had no problems other then a wiring clip braking and allowing the loom to droop next to the exhaust, so im very pleased  
 
Matt
 Grin
IP Logged


FDS2000 Scans - Birmingham
Matt
Senior Member
****




Manual'd and a 4.0 in the making

   
View Profile Email

Posts: 2816
Re: 24v Manual Conversion
« Reply #1 on: Sep 25th, 2010, 8:32pm »

I should also Give a big mention to http://www.fordpower.org.uk/forum/ and the guys on there that helped my with my conversion
IP Logged


FDS2000 Scans - Birmingham
sjfl
Newbie
*



I'm a YaBB newbie!

   
View Profile

Posts: 28
Re: 24v Manual Conversion
« Reply #2 on: Sep 25th, 2010, 9:22pm »

ok thanks for the info Smiley
IP Logged
Pages: 1  Send Topic Send Topic Print Print

« Previous topic | Next topic »

Ford Scorpio Forum » Powered by YaBB 1 Gold - SP 1.3.1!
YaBB © 2000-2003. All Rights Reserved.