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Title: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Wadman on Oct 8th, 2006, 10:16pm At slow to moderate speed, there is a 'rotary' whine from right rear, but only turning left not right. Is it a rear wheel bearing or worse? If a bearing, what tools are required for DIY? Scorpio Ultima 2.3L petrol estate 1998 31,000mls. Wadman |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Kjetil S on Oct 8th, 2006, 10:28pm Wheel bearing. Almost certain of it. When you do left turns, the weight of the car shifts over to the right side and puts pressure on the bearings. Take a look here (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/suspension/RHubAssembly.pdf) and here (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/suspension/RWheelBearings.pdf). |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Wadman on Oct 8th, 2006, 11:01pm What a speedy and helpful answer, I am very impressed Many thanks |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by taliban on Oct 9th, 2006, 12:38am 31000 miles, wow! |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Simmo on Oct 9th, 2006, 7:22am This (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/rhubs.htm) will tell you all about the job. Click on the pictures to enlarge. As is said in the article the new hub nuts are much biger than the old ones so you can either buy new nuts from Ford or get a 41mm socket for the new nut. The old nuts are 32mm. The 200ft/lbs torque required to tighten them is way beyond a DIY torque wrench so they are equally hard to undo and usually need a 'breaker bar' in order to get the leverage. When you have done done the job be sure to check the nut after a few good runs to ensure it is still correctly torqued up. Thread lock should prevent any problems BUT it has been known for them to come loose,possibly because they were not 'torqued' up correctly in the first place. The 'brake wind back' tool mentioned is also a 'must' (about a fiver) as the piston has to be wound back as it is threaded. You cannot use grips or clamps as you can on the fronts. |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Wadman on Oct 15th, 2006, 10:40am We downloaded the info from the sites given by Kjetil S on the bearing replacement procedure. It seems to us these instructions relate to drum brakes and not the disc version I have. Am I wrong? Wadman |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Kjetil S on Oct 15th, 2006, 11:39am I've never seen a Scorpio with drum brakes ??? Btw, can't see anything related to drum brakes in those two pdfs :-/ (I just re-checked just to be sure). It is basicly: *Remove the wheel *Remove the caliper *Remove the disc *Remove the hub *Remove the bearing housing *Take the bearing housing apart (this is the tough part) *Refit in reverse order |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Bobbit on Oct 15th, 2006, 12:58pm Just had the same on 96 ghia estate, when dismanted found the stub axle had a huge groove in it where the bearing had collapsed. I would get it fixed asap to avoid same. |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by mr._floppy on Oct 16th, 2006, 12:37am I've bought a bearing and hub carrier in readiness for my imminent N/S rear wheel bearing failure , I keep it in the boot. :-/ |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by jonnycab on Oct 16th, 2006, 1:06am on 10/16/06 at 00:37:24, mr._floppy wrote:
F1 style, 20 second quick change Mr Floppy? ;D |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Wadman on Oct 16th, 2006, 8:47am Gentlemen I thank you one and all for help Regards |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Wadman on Nov 6th, 2006, 10:23am Does anyone know the the Ford part No for the wheel bearing? |
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Title: Radio code Post by Wadman on Nov 8th, 2006, 12:07pm Just changed the battery and of course have no idea of the code to restore the radio because this was the original battery. Ford dealer will do it for £20 anybody know a less painless way |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Kjetil S on Nov 8th, 2006, 12:15pm Take the radio out and take a note of the serial number. A lot of members here have the software to calculate your code (for free ;D), and I'm sure some of them will speak up soon. |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Snoopy on Nov 9th, 2006, 7:51am Send me your Radio Serial Number and I will send the code back for you |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Wadman on Nov 9th, 2006, 12:34pm My main problem is I am handicapped and a simple task of 'removing the radio' is not so simple. The car is in for it's annual service tomorrow and the garage will re-activate the radio for £20 , the cost of removing/replacing the radio, and store my code/ser no on their database for future reference. However, I will ask the garage for the radio s/no so as to be able use the kind facillities offered by members, should the problem arise again. Regards |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Wadman on Nov 30th, 2006, 10:31pm Took the car for rear wheel bearing test. Was informed that cost of check was £30. How can I do this check myself? I do have a hydraulic jack Wadman |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by mr._floppy on Nov 30th, 2006, 11:04pm A rear wheel bearing test ? ??? The overwhelming experience of people on this board is that there is NO test for the state of rear bearings . Lucky people get squeaks, squeals ( like mine are doing at the moment ), groans, rumbles, wandering steering as a warning of impending doom. Other poor souls get no warning at all as a rear bearing collapses at 70mph with serious subsequent brake and caliper damage . The best you can do is jack the rear wheels up and check it for any bearing movement or any untoward sounds when the wheel is spun. |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Wadman on Dec 1st, 2006, 3:40pm Thanks to Mr Floppy If as you say, there is no definative manual method to check the bearigs, what was the guy charging £30 going to do - don't go there! What started all this was a pronounced offside rear wheel noise when slow turning left, and only left. At only 32000 miles on the clock should one go thro' the laborious exercise of dismantling the hub just in case, ie rear bearing collapse at 70mph etc? Wadman |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by mr._floppy on Dec 1st, 2006, 8:44pm You could try unloosening the big bearing nut ( 32mm socket, I think ) by half a turn , if the noise gets worse or disappears at least you know it's the bearing . :-/ |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Highlander on Dec 2nd, 2006, 12:27am I beg to differ but jacking the rear wheels up of off the ground IS the usual procedure for checking a wheel bearing.. they have to be checked during the MOT remember.. If it is worn there will be movement in the bearing which you would not be able to see with the wheel still on the ground I wouldn't recommend driving with the locknut slackened either as if it is not tightened to the correct torque a worn bearing will fail even quicker and as previously stated on the Scorpio this is often sudden and without warning |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Snoopy on Dec 2nd, 2006, 8:03am Driving with the hub retaining nut slackened is at the least foolish and also dangerous. If the wheel and its associated parts were to part company even at slow speed who know what the consequences could be . DO NOT DO THAT ! {} {} {} |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Wadman on Dec 2nd, 2006, 1:11pm Folks - thanks for info, but do we ALL agree that a worn bearing CAN be identified by jacking up the car and feeling for 'rocking movement. Also, at 3200 miles, should this be an urgent check? As I am disabled, I want a safe car but the mechanical dismantling procedure needs to be at least 75% necessary. Wadman |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by Highlander on Dec 2nd, 2006, 2:30pm Yep, jack it up and shake it in every direction, the bearings can go at any milage, in fact a couple on here have had them replaced less than a year after fitting a new one so the milage is not a good indication. There is no need to dismantle the hub or indeed remove the wheel unless the bearing needs replaced. |
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Title: Re: Rear-end rotary noise Post by TiberiuS on Dec 2nd, 2006, 7:17pm Yup, any excess movement in the wheel when jacked up points to a worn bearing. I understand your position, if it was me I'd rather be safe than sorry; a new bearing is cheaper than all the problems it'd cause if it went at speed and took the best part of the brakes and hub with it. Regards, Bruce ;). |
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