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        General >> Give/Need advice to/from others >> Teves ABS Controller
        
(Message started by: workshopboy on Oct 8^th, 2008, 7:15pm)

Title: Teves ABS Controller
Post by workshopboy on Oct 8^th, 2008, 7:15pm

Hi All
Just a short note to let you all know that I have had the same problem with the soldered pins in the ABS controller. A little bit of work with the iron has the system working as it should once more.
Many Thanks for all the advice on here

Andy

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by Cosray - The Hague - Holland on Dec 5^th, 2008, 3:26pm

Hi, how does one get to the controller?
In my Scorpio Cosworth 95 it sits locked under the ABS Pump motor attached to a bunch of hydraulic pipes... or is that where it is?
Curious,
Ray

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by Tompion on Dec 5^th, 2008, 5:46pm

It's under the valve block - the pump motor plugs into it.

It can be taken out without undoing the hydraulic pipes apparently - not done it myself.

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by Scorpio_Mike on Dec 5^th, 2008, 5:56pm

on 12/05/08 at 17:46:18, Tompion wrote:

It's under the valve block - the pump motor plugs into it.

It can be taken out without undoing the hydraulic pipes apparently - not done it myself.

Simmo knows how to do this ;D

Over to you Mike ;)

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by Simmo on Dec 5^th, 2008, 7:38pm

The motor and pipework sit in a metal frame secured by three bolts which are easily undone. There is also a large multiplug connector which needs to be removed. This has a LONG bolt which needs to be fully undone and in fact pulls the connector out as it comes. There is a theory that you can then lift the motor and pipework enough to get at the two screws underneath which hold the controller to the motor etc. Personally I could not do that. The metal carrier is secured on the wheel arch by three captive bolts and the nuts are underneath. They are accessed by removing the wheel arch liner. Once the carrier is out of the way you still need a very shallow ratchet and bit to release the screws which hold the controller to the motor. There is also the two pin connector for the motor which needs to be released. If you removed the hydraulic pipes of course life would be simple as the complete unit would lift off the carrier without getting under the wheel arch. IF the problem is with the pins a scan will say that the pump is not working. The simple way to check this is to remove the two pin connector put a 12v supply to the motor and if it runs then clearly it is NOT faulty but simply not getting power ...ie: pins probably need soldering as documented by Tompion and indeed he has now mended several.....including mine!.
The details are all provided,with pictures, HERE (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/absmodulator.htm).

Tompions article is Here (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/abscontrollerrepair.htm). He has now refined the method and just cuts a hole above the pins, which sit below the connector, and thus has only a small aperture to re-seal.

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by gozz on Dec 5^th, 2008, 9:28pm

Cosray.
Simmo's got hands like shovels ;D If you swing the coolant header tank out of the way,undo the three fixings on the pump unit,then possibly remove a pipe clamp or two and take out the multiplug and motor plug,you can bend the unit up enough to get a short screwdriver or small ratchet bit to the two screws holding the module on.
GOZZ.

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by Simmo on Dec 6^th, 2008, 6:47am

All I can say is I tried that method but no way could I get access to the underside. One day I'm going to watch Gozz do this !!. ;D :D. If you can do it good luck. ;)

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by workshopboy on Dec 7^th, 2008, 7:56pm

Hi Guys
I managed to remove just the control box by undoing the torx bolts and removing just the box. i soldered the joints once I managed to open the unit and put it all back together in less than an hour

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by Tompion on Dec 7^th, 2008, 9:31pm

As Simmo says I have looked at his MKIV ABS controller & it had the same fault as the later type of unit shown on the website.
I intend to post something more about it when I’ve had a chance to test it.

But for the time being here’s a couple of pictures.
You need to be careful as the board isn’t far below the cover.
I bored a 20mm hole directly opposite to the socket for the motor plug - on the other side of the case. As with my unit it looked OK until I scraped away the shiny mastic when the faulty joints could easily be seen.
One of the motor pins connects to earth so you can test that on the car although of course it may test OK even if the solder joint is bad.

http://i.imgur.com/3ZE0Sqj.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Xmwc0ZL.jpg

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by Tekno on Feb 2^nd, 2010, 10:45am

Hello,

some folks seem to have successfully detached box only, without going under car and without detaching hydraulic pipes. Am I right?

If that's correct, were the box like this, and three bolts you unbolted, those big torxes shown on this picture below? Any help appriciated, please.

http://ruohoranta.fi/galleries/sekalaiset/Scorpio-98/_thumbs/700x500-DSC05197.JPG

http://ruohoranta.fi/galleries/sekalaiset/Scorpio-98/_thumbs/700x500-DSC05201.JPG

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by Tekno on Feb 2^nd, 2010, 2:04pm

I took a risk and bended hydraulic hoses and now abs box is on my desk. How to measure it ? or shall I just cut a hole ::)

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by Tekno on Feb 2^nd, 2010, 6:14pm

Well, I did cut a hole and measured pins continuity. There was no problems. ::)
Now, ideas? Should I put everything back together :-/

http://ruohoranta.fi/galleries/sekalaiset/Scorpio-98/_thumbs/700x500-DSC05210.JPG

http://ruohoranta.fi/galleries/sekalaiset/Scorpio-98/_thumbs/700x500-DSC05213.JPG

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by Tekno on Feb 3^rd, 2010, 12:41pm

UPDATE:

After scraping shiny mastic, I soldered those and then cleaned every pin of connectors. There was little bit vaseline on some pins ???. Then I assembled everything back together and took a ride.. and... YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH IT WORKS ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D BOTH, ABS AND TCS WORKS NOW!

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by PJDavis on Feb 3^rd, 2010, 9:41pm

My controller is the bigger looking one that is more square, is that an early or late one?

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by gozz on Feb 3^rd, 2010, 10:16pm

PJD.
The later one has the unit on the front held on by four screws,the early one has the unit right underneath and is more difficult to remove even though it only has two screws.
GOZZ.

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by PJDavis on Feb 4^th, 2010, 10:04am

So, is the one pictured above the early type? :-[

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by gozz on Feb 4^th, 2010, 10:22am

Yes,the box shown by Tekno has traction control,Tompion's hasn't,but they are the early type.I have an idea,though I may be wrong,that all TC equipped cars used the early type.
GOZZ.

Title: Re: Teves ABS Controller
Post by blue2 on Mar 13^th, 2011, 7:18pm

Just to say thanks to the guys who gave advice about using Alex Peper's Tricom lead for diagnosing ABS problems, I had stuggled getting any code until I read the tips.
I had an intermiitent problem with the ABS/TCS lights coming on at 1 5 Mph, as it happened the problem dissapeard for a month around the time of the MOT but returned last week! Mine is the MkIV larger type by the way.

Using the Trican lead I found as suspected the now common Pump Motor control circuit code. Before proving the point I had aquired a spare unit very cheaply on Ebay, so I have installed just the Electronic module which I managed to do without disconnecting any hydraulics. All works OK, as most of you will know an initial run at over 15Mph was required to get rid of the ABS/TCS lights (one complete test cycle I assume).

I have now dissected the original module - I boldly hacked the top of by going around with a small hobby type diamond wheel as all other efforts failed and seeing the amount of sealant I can now see why! I would agree that the hole method is easier as there is very little else one could repair in there
(and I am an ex computer engineer).
I have now resoldered the pump pins and will reseal with mastic whilst finding some way of reinstating the shielding provided by the silvered box cover. I have some photos showing the complete insides if anyone is interested. Will just keep as a spare unit which I will now probably never need as the car is already 16 years old.