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        General >> Give/Need advice to/from others >> engine compatability
        
(Message started by: sierra20 on Aug 25^th, 2009, 5:30pm)

Title: engine compatability
Post by sierra20 on Aug 25^th, 2009, 5:30pm

hoping for you help on my sierra, i need to put a new engine in my xr4x4, which is a later model with the hydraulic lifters and no maf sensors, would a 12v engine from a scorpio be a straight swap, obviously after changing the sump and fitting a fly wheel?
thanks
btw has anyone ever done a diy engine change, is it do-able in a garage with a set of ramp and a hoist?.

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by pinto on Aug 25^th, 2009, 6:23pm

yep, should be a straight swap. Dont forget you'll need a set of flywheel bolts and more importantly, a motion shaft bearing to go in the crank - an auto lump wont have either

Its quite possible to do the change in the location you describe, but i'd advise having some muscle on hand to assist you with the heavy bits :)

For a novice, spare a good weekend to do the swap.

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by sierra20 on Aug 25^th, 2009, 6:31pm

thanks for the advice, what is the motion shaft bearing? where does it go on the crank?

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by pinto on Aug 25^th, 2009, 6:37pm

Its a very small needle bearing race about 1/2 inch in diameter that goes in a drilling right in the end of the crank - its designed to support the first motion shaft from the gearbox. As an auto has no first motion shaft - no bearing :)

It'll cost you about a tenner from fords :)

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by amigafan2003 on Aug 26^th, 2009, 12:25am

Otherwise known as a spigot bearing:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-SIERRA-TYPE-9-5-sp-GEARBOX-SPIGOT-CRANK-BEARING_W0QQitemZ310129847262QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item48352debde&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by pinto on Aug 26^th, 2009, 5:14pm

t'ats da fella :)

AFAIK, all ford gearboxes use the same bearing, so you could go for that one happily

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by sierra20 on Aug 26^th, 2009, 5:50pm

thanks for the info guys much appreciated, when i change the engine i am going to change the cam and followers, so it will need the heads off, is it possible to fit the engine in the car without a hoist, but do it by musle, putting the block in first then fit the heads once the block is in the car?

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by Jonnycab on Aug 26^th, 2009, 7:12pm

Depends on how big your muscles are ;D

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by pinto on Aug 26^th, 2009, 7:47pm

fitting it as a short engine (without the heads or ancilliaries) probably wont be a bad idea, and MIGHT just make the weight manageable - the v6 isnt the most featherlight engine out there. You'll need to fit the cam first tho as it isnt possible with the engine in the car.

Also, is it a performance cam you're fitting ? if its too wild, then it wont work with the hydraulic tappets and you'll need to go back to manual ones.

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by sierra20 on Aug 26^th, 2009, 8:58pm

yeah, im going get the kit which has the solid lifters with it.

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by Highlander on Aug 26^th, 2009, 9:03pm

on 08/26/09 at 17:50:29, sierra20 wrote:

Having recently removed a 12v engine with a hoist I would say no, you wont be able to manhandle it into place, two of us lifted it off the floor into a van but theres no way we could have lowered it into an engine bay

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by Scorpio_Mike on Aug 26^th, 2009, 9:33pm

Agree with Highlander - I have a Cologne V6 on the floor at the moment - just the bottom end - block, crank, pistons etc... - without heads I reckon it must weigh between 150 ~ 175 kg so unless you want to damage yourself, the engine or the car you MUST get a hoist.

I'm pretty sure you can change the camshaft without removing the heads - take the inlet manifold off and you can get to the tappets, sure I did this on a 2.8 many years ago.

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by Highlander on Aug 26^th, 2009, 9:45pm

If I was doing it without a hoist i'd drop the subframe and jack the car up high enough to get the engine in from below..

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by sierra20 on Aug 26^th, 2009, 9:55pm

thanks for the advice, will rob try and gethold of a hoist, is it easier to leave the box on, or take it off?

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by Highlander on Aug 26^th, 2009, 10:03pm

I doubt you'd get the engine and box out together from the top, i struggled getting the engine out on its own :)

Might be possible but I didnt try it

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by Scorpio_Mike on Aug 26^th, 2009, 10:29pm

I recently dropped a complete engine & gearbox from a 2.8 XR4x4 which was a doner car for my project - using an engine crane - down on to the ground.
I supported the car on 2 car ramps positioned under the front jacking points where the floorpan is reinforced. Guess you could use axle stands but my driveway is not flat so the ramps made it a lot more stable.

Snag with the 4x4 is that it is no use driving it up on ramps as you need to get the front wheels & most of the front suspension off to get the driveshafts out of the diff / sump.

I quite literally picked the car up by the front end with a 2-ton lift engine crane using a lifting strap on the front crossmember - the bit with the towing loop - first making sure it was sound - I wasn't really bothered about bending it a bit as the shell was only going to be scrapped, although after I'd finished there was no sign of bending on this part.

If you want to remove the engine & gearbox as one unit you will have to drop them out as I did although I believe you can remove the engine alone from the top although it is tight.

With the weight of the engine & gearbox hanging on the hoist I undid the engine mounts and then the 4 bolts holding the alloy crossmember to the chassis side rails - Don't forget to disconnect the steering rack from the steering column before trying to remove the alloy crossmember. With the crossmember removed I lowered the engine & box to the floor.

Get yourself a Haynes manual before you start if you haven't already got one - couple of £'s from ebay, loads on there.

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by Simmo on Aug 27^th, 2009, 7:35am

on 08/26/09 at 22:29:15, Scorpio_Mike wrote:

Guess you could use axle stands but my driveway is not flat so the ramps made it a lot more stable.

Mike, That is the understatement of the year! :o. It's about 1 in 5 :o :o :o

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by Matt on Aug 28^th, 2009, 6:24pm

Sierra,

where are you located mate? ive got a hoist you can borrow

im in birmingham

Matt

Title: Re: engine compatability
Post by sierra20 on Aug 28^th, 2009, 7:56pm

thanks for the offer matt, but im in essex, little bit to far me thinks