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        General >> Off Topic Subjects >> Patching up plastic car parts - Post your story
        
(Message started by: rixivee on Nov 19^th, 2013, 4:08am)

Title: Patching up plastic car parts - Post your story
Post by rixivee on Nov 19^th, 2013, 4:08am

I was tempted to title this "patching up the 2.3 inlet - post your method" but I guess Scorpio isn't the only car with cracking plastic parts in stupid places..

http://i42.tinypic.com/20tj78l.jpg

So, I drilled open the cracks and patched the holes with blue stuff that makes really strong bond with ABS. The 'blue stuff'(that's actually the product name translated to english) is also supposed to soften and enlargen slightly in heat. After that, I sanded the whole t-stat housing, outside and inside, and then did three layers of 450g/m2 fiberglass on it. I didn't laminate the insidss but I carefully pasted the laminating compound to the insides too. The t-stat housing appears to be fibre reinforced and I guess that's the reason why it kept sucking the liquid.

I'm adding more layers as we talk, I'm moving layer by layer further away from the cracks and last layer will be all over, rather than in smaller glassfiber strips. I'm still working out a plan for an emergency pressure relief valve but for starters I'll use modificated t-stat.

Any bets on how long it'll last? :-) I'm currently building an aluminum t-stat housing in school but I've got some concerns on how it'll work out.. So I'll use this meanwhile.

Title: Re: Patching up plastic car parts - Post your stor
Post by Dave2302 on Nov 19^th, 2013, 8:48am

It'll either last 5 minutes or forever.

Best mod to the 2.3 is fitting the entire ally inlet from the 2.0 ;)

BTW was all that PATS wiring info and wiring diagram ok for you ?

Cheers Dave

Title: Re: Patching up plastic car parts - Post your stor
Post by rixivee on Nov 19^th, 2013, 12:18pm

on 11/19/13 at 08:48:12, Dave2302 wrote:

It'll either last 5 minutes or forever.

Best mod to the 2.3 is fitting the entire ally inlet from the 2.0 ;)

BTW was all that PATS wiring info and wiring diagram ok for you ?

Cheers Dave

Yes it was and sorry to let you know through the forums rather than direct email. I'm still in process of writing my response :-) I've been studying hard in my new school and family has been consuming the leftover time.

My dad managed to fix the inlet once, it lasted for days until he revved too harshly and the inlet went even worse. I'm working on a relief valve, to compensate immediate "climste change".

It's only got to last few months until I'm finished with aluminum replacement... :-)

Gonna send you mail later!

Title: Re: Patching up plastic car parts - Post your stor
Post by Tompion on Nov 19^th, 2013, 1:48pm

Rather than make a stat housing I used a rover in line one. I made a take off adapter that the 2 temp sensors fitted to. I used a lap joint for the shared bolt of the modified manifold.
It’s been in place for 5 years.

http://i.imgur.com/Z5jcy06.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7j2YvUt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9cC5dcm.jpg

Title: Re: Patching up plastic car parts - Post your stor
Post by Scorpio_Mike on Nov 19^th, 2013, 4:11pm

I have a brand new 2.0 inlet manifold for sale ;)

Title: Re: Patching up plastic car parts - Post your stor
Post by rixivee on Nov 19^th, 2013, 8:29pm

I've got two 2.0 16v inlets in my shed :P can't replace 2.3 inlet with 2.0 inlet here, well, not legally. Doesn't mean I wouldn't do it thought :-D

This is only a temporary fix, I'm building aluminum copy of the t-stat, it's just causing me some headache at the moment. It won't be ready by the time I have the 2.3 running in my Granny. Inspiration came from Tompion by the way ;) been thinking of making Tompion-style fox for about year now.

Hmm.. So far it seems tight. I wonder if it'll hold presssure. Heh-heh. Just did a quick fix for engine swap inspection, 'cause inspectors are quite easily upset if there's coolant leak.. I'm very keen on swapping the inlet to 2.0 16v one but so far I haven't had any luck with finding the gaskets or new plastic flange that goes under the inlet.

I'm mainly experimenting with the original inlet, because my mom's Scorpio is leaking VERY much coolant and I definitely don't want to do anything illegal to fix it..... haha.

Title: Re: Patching up plastic car parts - Post your stor
Post by Tompion on Nov 20^th, 2013, 8:51am

I've seen someone write they'd cut the stat housing off a 2.0 to use with a 2.3 manifold but what they did about the shared bolt or whether it was a decent job I don't know.

Title: Re: Patching up plastic car parts - Post your stor
Post by rixivee on Nov 20^th, 2013, 9:49am

on 11/20/13 at 08:51:24, Tompion wrote:

I've seen someone write they'd cut the stat housing off a 2.0 to use with a 2.3 manifold but what they did about the shared bolt or whether it was a decent job I don't know.

I've been thinking about doing that too but the shared bolt worries me. I definitely DO NOT want to replace the coolant leak with an air leak.

There are ways to go around it and seeing that I'm currently being schooled to become a machineer/machinist.. I've got full workshop to unleash my creativity in.

I might actually buy yet another 2.0i inlet to test it. I don't want to cut the ones I already own, bbecause they're from low mileage vehicles. I may also look for a Ford Sierra/Granada 8V dohc inlet. It's similar but would require (some) modification. I couldn't really care the less about destroying 8V inlets, because it's the black sheep of the DOHC family.

Title: Re: Patching up plastic car parts - Post your stor
Post by Tompion on Nov 20^th, 2013, 2:20pm

The plastic manifold doesn’t clamp tight like a metal one the bolts tighten to the steel inserts the plastic may/may not make full contact, it relies on the plastic/rubber inserts squeezing up to seal. I reused the inserts on mine. I dropped them in boiling water to regain their shape although that probably wasn’t necessary. I wouldn’t however reuse the 2.3 stat housing insert as that can be the cause of leaks as it has a steel core that can cut into the rubber.

The plastic of my manifold that 5stud gave me definitely doesn’t make full contact as the face had melted in places due presumably to it overheating when it lost coolant.

Before settling on the lap joint I had considered using a bit of steel plate with a hole in & using a stud & 3 nuts so I’d tighten the adaptor with the first nut then put a bit of pressure on the manifold with the plate by adjusting the height of the second nut & tightening the third nut onto it, you could probably do the same with a cranked plate although space is a bit tight under the injector rail.

I did consider making the adaptor with a straight hose connector but that would require an offset to miss the TPS & my bit of scrap brass plate wasn’t big enough but it might be easier that way if machining from solid.