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        General >> Problems >> Relay R11
        
(Message started by: Chieftain on Jan 29^th, 2008, 7:12am)

Title: Relay R11
Post by Chieftain on Jan 29^th, 2008, 7:12am

Leading on from ym lack of drive, a thought has occured to me. One of the symptoms was starting in gear, this points to R11 failing, however when I bought the car a year ago, it did this then BUT the big difference was it allowed gears to be selected. I checked the relays and found R11 missing but it had been bridged very proffessionaly almost like An AA/RAC "get you home sir" repair.

Question is, if the car will start in gear, although dangerous at least it starts so why bridge it? does the relay also provide power transmission range unit, therefor if no power no gear sel;ection.

If so would anyone know which 2 pins to bridge (still have bridge) till I can get correct relay, and befroe going down other paths.

Title: Re: Relay R11
Post by Simmo on Jan 29^th, 2008, 7:21am

It's chinese to me but does THIS (http://www.carsoft.ru/avtorepair/sierra/startingsys.pdf) help in any way. The site referred to is marked Sierra BUT it IS for the Scorpio. :)

Title: Re: Relay R11
Post by Chieftain on Jan 29^th, 2008, 9:11am

Thanks for that, circuit diagrams have never been my forte, but sure someone can make sense of it.

Title: Re: Relay R11
Post by Matt on Jan 30^th, 2008, 6:15pm

as its an auto, once its in gear its being driven by the engine, and will try and creep, which is dangerous, and will put undue wear on the auto box as its trying to move the car while its being held by the hand break, starter motor as its having to crank the engine and the box 'in gear'. and battery

also when the engine starts it rises to 2 or so thousand revs which will make the car move no matter how hard the hand break is applied, try it next time your in it, rev it up with it in gear and the hand break applied

i imagine its bridged to disable the start inhibitor

Title: Re: Relay R11
Post by Chieftain on Jan 30^th, 2008, 9:26pm

Matt I realise this as I have had the car for a year now, it was onlt bridges for a few days ti ll I realised it was starting in any gear. Looking at the circuit diagrams though the transmission selector on the side of the box is fed from the starter inhibitor switch, thus my therory is sudden loss of gear selection is electrical, and the bridge wasi nserted by A/RAC. knowledgeable person to enable power to flow to said sensor and allow gears to be selected. At least that is it. All other faults have been ruled out short of total failure :'( and so far no one thinks it is that) new relay tommorow so will post results.

Title: Re: Relay R11
Post by Highlander on Jan 31^st, 2008, 1:54pm

Not been following this one but could it be your selector wswitch causing the bother?

Title: Re: Relay R11
Post by Chieftain on Jan 31^st, 2008, 5:13pm

Highlander
To recap: parked up one night with no problems, started up next day, came to engage gear, pressed the swithc on top of shift in as normal and moved into gear. However no drive at all, also the movement between the gate was silky smooth. Also noted it will start in any position.

Took gear shift out and checked all ok there, refitted same problem, just fitted new relay and still same problem. Sure this is electronic as it was so sudden and not sure the relay is actually faulty.

looking at the circuit diagrams it seemd as if the relay also fed the transmiision rnage selector, but may be this is not right. Or it is that thta has failed.

Running out of ideas and do not like the idea of it going to a garage, especially as it is a long way to the auto box specialist I would trust.

Feel free to give me a call if you like 01766 832488

Title: Re: Relay R11
Post by Highlander on Jan 31^st, 2008, 7:42pm

Heres the bit I think could be the problem Bob

You can see the selector linkage at the bottom of the circled area, the arm this is connected to also has a linkage on the top of it (you can see where it attaches to)
This arm pivots to select the gears inside the box, the lower linkage pulls while the top one pushes and vice versa.

Now the problem I have seen with this part is that the bracket the arm is connected to will break (its made of a very light cast metal) and give you the symptoms you describe.
The bracket is held onto the box by two torx screws, to replace mine I had to lower the box to gain enough access

http://i32.tinypic.com/1sl5zl.jpg