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Title: runs when cold.. Post by ALAN on Sep 29th, 2010, 8:55pm Car runs for a while but when it gets warm it stops dead, if i leave the car a few hours it starts again if i switch it off it doesn,t restart until left a few hours again. Had diagnostic out and he said it looked like the edis module. I bought one of here and put it on only to call him out again as the fault was still there, he checked again and said the only other thing was the ecu unit which costs £250 for it to be checked. He did say if i get hold of another one he will test it here for me but i dont know if all the ecu systems are the same or differ from car to car etc, thanks for any info. |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Matt on Sep 29th, 2010, 8:59pm alan if you can get to Birmingham ill put your car on my fds, that will tell you exactly whats up, where abouts are you located, if your not to far i can arrange to bring it up to you |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by ALAN on Sep 29th, 2010, 9:35pm I,m in stoke on trent about half an hour to an hours drive away, sorry i cant get the car to you but the way it runs it would take me over a week to get there, would gladly pay you for your time and trouble, thanks |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Highlander on Sep 30th, 2010, 10:23am Which engine is it? on 09/29/10 at 20:55:35, ALAN wrote:
or the wiring between the EDIS and ECU. Especially the signal from the ECU to the Fuel Pump Relay. This signal provides a 12 volt supply to the pump safety switch and then to the pump. This signal is provided from the EDIS unit to the ECU (black and white wire) and can be checked as follows: - Pin 1 EDIS to Pin 48 PCM (ECU) - black and white A four channel scope Channel 1 EDIS positive - Ignition feed Channel 2 EDIS ground Channel 3 PIP signal Channel 4 Crankshaft Sensor Bypass the black and white wire between EDIS 1 and ECU 48 to eliminate this as a cause. |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by ALAN on Sep 30th, 2010, 12:40pm Hi, its a 2.9 24v cosworth. thanks |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Highlander on Sep 30th, 2010, 1:18pm Slightly different then, the above data was for the DOHC Fuel Pump The fuel pump relay (K4) receives voltage from the ignition switch (N278) and is controlled by pin 80 (pin 54 with passive anti-theft system (PATS)) of the PCM (A147). Pin 40 of the PCM (A147) is used as a fuel pump monitor input. Current flows to the inertia switch (N61) which shuts off the fuel pump in the fuel tank unit (A31) in case of an accident. The fuel pump runs constantly during normal operation, and the system pressure is preserved when the engine is shut off. http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/24vlooms.htm |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Cosray on Sep 30th, 2010, 6:16pm on 09/30/10 at 12:40:45, ALAN wrote:
Hi Alan, not much hope here but to roll up your sleeves and get your soldering gun out + heatshrink sleeve. Had all the 24v gremlins; read my earlier posts. Do PM me for advice if needed. Be sure to check and repair/replace wiring, wire by wire: 3-wire shielded EEC-V to/fro EDIS - replace, bypass incl. shield. The EDIS itself is almost indestructible; have two here if you need one for test. Wiring from CPS into EDIS - just bypass old wiring, make sure to cut Wiring to/fro coilpack 1-2-3 to EDIS The engine compartment loom (which I had replaced in the end completely) is a female dog. It will break apart when you open to inspect it... Do inspect the engine loom aka fuel cut-off loom. They are all over minimally 12 years old (1998) by now... and brittle and corroded by heat, moist and oil. HTH Ray |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Matt on Sep 30th, 2010, 8:42pm Alan, pm me your address mate, i'll try and get up to you this weekend Matt |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Matt on Oct 2nd, 2010, 7:03pm Hi all just got back from Alan's, strange problem this one, had the car running all day on the FDS then when i decided to try and check the rest of the car, turned it off and then it wouldnt restart first off when i started it there was an air leak, stripped the intake off and found the vacuum pipes form the manifold to the little T's detached, reconnected all and the engine ran beautifully check the fuel pressures and what not with the FDS and passed all electrical modules seem to be working ok apart from the fans on low speed however no fault codes for that and high speed works?? decided to check all fault codes and got fuel pump circuit faults, cleared all re tested and no faults so im assuming that was an old code that hadn't been cleared while trying to get it started again i decided to interrogate the immobiliser system, the FDS threw up code D147 which is code 16 on the pats LED seems to be a problem with either the immobiliser or the PATS module, Doesnt the Pats reset it self after a few hours, clearing any fault thus allowing the car to start again? tried another ecu but pats stopped it working but by this time the batter was near enough dead and with only the master key working i didnt want to risk clearing the PATS and issuing new codes |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by scorpio_man on Oct 2nd, 2010, 8:19pm hi matt sent you a pm. regards andrew |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Cosray on Oct 2nd, 2010, 9:38pm Hi guys, what year 24v we're talking?? Ray |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Matt on Oct 2nd, 2010, 9:59pm P reg so a 96/7 |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Mike H on Oct 3rd, 2010, 5:50pm Was it the diagnostic guy took the T connectors off? |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Matt on Oct 3rd, 2010, 6:20pm I dont think so, they looked as if they had been off for some time |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Mike H on Oct 3rd, 2010, 6:32pm Curiouser and curiouser said Alice. ;D Flexi pipes OK? |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Matt on Oct 3rd, 2010, 6:35pm yep only other odd engine thing i found was the breather on the air box was routed the wrong way and was crushed, but ive sorted that and again it looks as if its been that way for a while |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Cosray on Oct 3rd, 2010, 6:38pm Those two T-bits - they come off as they sort of hang over the hottest part of the engine connected by plastic tubing that become brittle and shake. Listen to any old BOB engine and you will hear this typical hissing... when you open the throttle... and they start sucking false air... Ray |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Mike H on Oct 3rd, 2010, 6:44pm Can they be relocated? |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Cosray on Oct 3rd, 2010, 6:46pm Certainly - I will put some pics up soon. Here: http://bit.ly/dtdhB9 Ray |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Matt on Oct 3rd, 2010, 6:48pm ive seen one with longer pipe work and the t's relocated above the intake, they are normally ok untill they are disturbed in some way, ive stripped enough bobs to know lol, most of the time they are broken when the breather hose is tugged in some way as the tubing runs under and over the t connectors the problem isnt with the engine, i believe its an issue with the pats system not talking to the EECV |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Cosray on Oct 3rd, 2010, 7:05pm Matt, no doubt about it. its an issue with the pats system not talking to the EECV I remember somewhere next to the heater there is an orange relay which can be a real pain in the behind causing this immobilised condition. In my LHD it sits to the right of the heater near the floor. I forget what it is for and I will get back to you but meanwhile make sure that item is correctly wired. Years ago when I had my heater matrix replaced this culprit had me searching for two days. Also please do remember that, since 6 of the EEC-V's ports are connected through the INJ coils - who are permanently ALWAYS ON the 12V but the other ports are NOT - once you take away the EEC-V OR mess with its cabling the EEC-V will hang/freeze for some 24 hours... especially exchanging EEC-V's will produce these symptoms when disconnected/connected with connected battery... Meanwhile you will scratch your head as you know everything is correctly in place but alas no sparks... until 24 hours later when this static charge on the EEC-V's port's leaked away... you turn the key and it runs... HTH Ray |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Matt on Oct 3rd, 2010, 7:18pm Cheers for that Ray i think this would have been a simple issue to fix unitll yet again a breakdown service who doesnt know a thing about the cars messes with them, alan tell me that the green flag or AA bloke had 'disabled' the alarm system. it annoys me when they mess just waiting for alan to come back to me with any more info he can get with regards to what the bloke did |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Mike H on Oct 4th, 2010, 4:39pm As an aside, re the 'T' connectors, I have made one from small brass tube, and the pipes secured on with small cable ties, worth considering |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Matt on Oct 5th, 2010, 11:06am also if you pop to a camping store or a gas bottle/accesory store they do some metal tee's of various sizes |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Cosray on Oct 5th, 2010, 11:12am ... as well as in aquariumshops...including perfect tubing. Ray |
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Title: Re: runs when cold.. Post by Mike H on Oct 5th, 2010, 2:55pm Good pointers ;D |
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