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        General >> Problems >> Radiator
        
(Message started by: Bruiser on Mar 12^th, 2016, 12:32am)

Title: Radiator
Post by Bruiser on Mar 12^th, 2016, 12:32am

Hi there,

Just wondering if any one knows whether the radiators are the same for a 2.3 and 2.9 engine? Also does the transmission make a difference?

Thanks

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by ben24v on Mar 12^th, 2016, 3:35pm

The 2.9 is a different radiator to the 2.3

If it's a 2.9 you need they are hard to get, I ended up having one made.

Some people have used a 2.3 radiator on a 2.9 but there isn't a small return pipe on them so it will also need blocking off at the header tank.

Only diesels came with manual gearbox so it's a auto and the radiator needs to have a heat exchange for the gear oil

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Bruiser on Mar 15^th, 2016, 12:15am

Thank you. I'm having trouble removing one of the auto oil cooler unions on the radiator (top one). It wont budge and I've tried penetrating oil, in danger of rounding off the nut.

Might try giving it some heat with a blow torch but not sure if the pipes are aluminium or an alloy??

Any ideas?

Thanks

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Tompion on Mar 15^th, 2016, 6:19pm

The pipes & nut are usually steel. However the heat exchanger is plastic with a brass insert so heat will probably destroy the rad.

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by amigafan2003 on Mar 15^th, 2016, 7:45pm

on 03/12/16 at 15:35:43, ben24v wrote:

Only diesels came with manual gearbox so it's a auto and the radiator needs to have a heat exchange for the gear oil

2ltr and 2.3ltr were both avail as manuals.

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Bruiser on Mar 15^th, 2016, 10:38pm

Hi,

Don't mind if the rad is destroyed, there's a crack on the top plastic outlet. Just want to get it off to put another radiator on without destroying the pipe.

Are the pipes able to be changed if they get damaged? I suppose there are unions on the gearbox?

Thanks for your help.

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Snoopy on Mar 16^th, 2016, 8:36am

The pipes are linked back to the gear box via some flexible rubber hosing. The unions are a standard fit and the the two pipes to the gear box from the radiator are replaceable. Some people had them replaced and used FORD parts others had the local hydraulic suppliers make some pipes up. There are articles on the main site about repacing the pipes due to corrosion
see http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/coolerpipes.htm
.

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by ben24v on Mar 16^th, 2016, 3:48pm

on 03/15/16 at 19:45:56, amigafan2003 wrote:

2ltr and 2.3ltr were both avail as manuals.

Ah right my bad

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Bruiser on Mar 16^th, 2016, 11:17pm

Thanks.

So the gearbox oils is warmed in the radiator? Or does it have a cooling effect as well?

I'm just weighing up what to do if the union doesn't come loose after heating and quenching. May have to cut and join the pipes going into the rad. Don't want to destroy the gearbox through overheating or lack of oil warmth from cold.

Any ideas?

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Bruiser on Mar 17^th, 2016, 11:04am

Hi, also just wondering if the threads on the top and bottom radiator pipes are in the same direction, anybody remember from experience?
Thanks.

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Tompion on Mar 17^th, 2016, 3:23pm

They're both RH thread, are you using a flare nut spanner? I've only used an ordinary open ended one but a proper one may help if it's that tight.

Looking at a Granada rad it looks like a twin wall copper tube clamped at both ends into the plastic end linking the inlet/outlet with what looks much the same as a domestic water tank flanged nut pipe fitting - so even if you melt the top of the rad it still won't fall out.

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by a900one on Mar 18^th, 2016, 8:29pm

I have cut a slot in a ring spanner to go over the pipe in the past. May be cheaper than a new pipe. ;)

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Bruiser on Mar 19^th, 2016, 9:50am

Hi,

I bought a flare not spanner from halfords, 17mm bit it's not the tightest of fits, mainly because the nut has deformed slightly from the previous attempt, it could make it worse.

I will try again today and give it some heat with a blow torch or heat gun then possibly quench it to crack it off the internal corrosion.

Any other ideas most appreciated. Will let you know how I get on.....

Cheers

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Snoopy on Mar 20^th, 2016, 9:59am

A small stilson spanner will grip IF you can get it on and tightens as you apply pressure. Something i use as a last resort

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Bruiser on Mar 20^th, 2016, 1:17pm

Hi,

I managed to get the union nut off by heating, quenching then using a large adjustable spanner.

Now that I've taken the rad out, I can see it has a hairline almost 3 inch long crack. Is there any way of repairing this?

Or hopefully someone has a new or used radiator for sale with the oil cooler.

Thanks guys.

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Simmo on Mar 20^th, 2016, 2:52pm

I repaired a leak on mine ages ago using the Titanium (https://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Epoxy_Putties_23.html) in this list. ;)

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Bruiser on Mar 20^th, 2016, 9:44pm

Simmo, can you tell me how you prepared the crack and then put on the putty.
I assume it's still holding? 260°c resistance sounds promising!

Thanks

Title: Re: Radiator
Post by Simmo on Mar 21^st, 2016, 7:42am

I simply made sure it was clean by using methylated spirits following a light sanding to give it a key. After that I simply kneaded the putty until it was properly mixed applied it and there it stays. I found it useful to use surgical gloves and once applied I got it smooth by just rubbing it over with a wet finger. You will see that the Company do many different putty sticks but I chose that one because it seemed to be the toughest. ;)