Drive shaft centre bearing replacement
Vehicle : Scorpio 2L 16v Auto

Cures vibration under acceleration/cruising
Upon removal, the bearing was found to be very badly worn and moved from side to side several mm. It is believed that this caused the propshaft to vibrate at resonance speeds which was felt through the car body rather than through the steering wheel which would have indicated worn steering or suspension.

The centre bearing and rubber housing/bracket are sold separately. Ford would only order the bearing for me, saying that they could not return the rubber housing if it was not required. There is no way to tell if the rubber has perished until you get it all apart. You’ll have to decide for yourself.

The bearing alone was £10.75. Finis no. 1613022.
The rubber housing and bracket was around £53 and I did not replace this.

Torque settings:
21 Nm for the 6 bolts securing the central bracket and bearing.
49 Nm for the 2 bolts securing the transverse brace.
66 Nm for the 4 driveshaft bolts.

Tools Required:
Wheel ramps/axle stands
Bearing puller
Suitable bearing press tool (see below large 30mm socket used for this purpose)
13mm spanner
15mm spanner
17mm spanner
13mm socket and wrench
15mm socket and wrench
Pliers
Torque wrench
 

Procedure
1. This is optional as the whole operation can be carried out without complete removal of the rear exhaust section, but it would be much easier if removed. Therefore, if possible undo the centre exhaust flange. Mine was so rusted I would have had to break it, so I left it to see what would happen.



2. Release all the rubber clips that hold the rear section of the exhaust in place. There are 8. Start at the front and work to the tail section last so you can support the whole exhaust as you release the last clip.



3. If you have not been able to remove the centre flange of the exhaust then it will lay on the floor without damaging anything. This is possible as there is a flexible section just in front of the centre flange.



4. Remove the front and back heatshields to reveal the driveshaft. These are held in place by 10 hexagonal shaped hollow nuts. Most came off by gripping one of the lips with a pair of pliers and giving it a twist. One or two needed a screwdriver and small hammer just to get them to start turning.



5. Remove the transverse brace (not fitted to cars from Jan ‘96 on) using a 13mm spanner/socket. This is immediately in front of the rear end of the drive shaft and is held in place by two bolts that screw into a static nut that is on the rear side of the cross member shown above.



6. Remove the 4 bolts from the rear section of the driveshaft using a 15mm spanner/socket. Score a line where indicated above so you know the position when replacing. Mark each bolt so you replace them in the correct holes.



7. Remove the clamp and centre bearing housing in the order shown above. There are two spacer washers that you’ll need to retain and refit as indicated. You can then remove the driveshaft by gently pulling it toward the rear of the vehicle.



8. Using a 17mm spanner remove the bolt that joins the two halves of the driveshaft together. There is a washer with a bent over flange that needs to be straightened first.



9. You should now have a separated drive shaft as pictured above with the thick U-shaped washed that fits behind the bolt you have just removed. The metal bracket with the rubber mount inside just pulls off with a good tug.



10. View of the separated driveshaft and bracket. Bearing to be replaced is indicated.



11. Remove the bearing using a suitable puller. I used a small spanner across the threaded gap as shown so as not to damage the internal thread.





12. I used a large 30mm socket placed over the new bearing and gently tapped it onto the shaft. Another picture of this is below.



13. And finally the new bearing in situ with the rubber mount pushed back on.



14. Refit is just the reverse of dismantling.