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Scorpio Front & Rear Brake Disc/Pads Replacement

Hi, after discussion through ‘Scorpio Confidential’ I have just got round to changing the disc’s and pads on my 1997 2.3 Ghia X Estate. Some of my techniques/practices may not present themselves as ‘best’ but I have been in the motor trade 21 years, a considerable amount of time within Ford dealerships and these methods have served me well. The cost of the disc’s (Ford retail price exclusive of VAT) is £30.96 each. The front’s and rear are the same price although different discs. The same for the pads @ £26.80 per set. Hope this is of use to someone.

Brian.

Front Disc & Pad replacement.

TOOLS REQUIRED

7mm Allen Key (long socket type is best)
15mm spanner/socket
Pliers
Sidecutters
Pipe grips (large) or Screw drivers/tyre levers
Hammer (2lb)
Wire brush/Emery cloth
Copper slip grease
Thread lock
Torque wrench. (Essential to torque wheelnuts to 85N/M)

Remove brake fluid reservoir top and protect reservoir with suitable cloth/tissue. In the event of any brake fluid spillage wash off with plenty of tap water. (Make sure reservoir cap back on!)


Jack vehicle and support with axle stands, remove road wheels and have ignition set to position 1 to enable steering to be turned. With pair of pliers or a screwdriver remove anti-rattle clip [from side of calliper)


Turn steering on full lock to make access to caliper bolts easier, remove blanking/dust plugs, which shield retaining bolts.


Undo caliper retaining studs two 7mm Allen key bolts and remove.


The 7mm Allen Key caliper retaining bolts and caps


Ease back the caliper piston. I use big grips but you can use a tyre lever or large screwdriver. Pull the piston back as far as it will go. It can be quite stiff and strong resistance is felt.


Remove outer half of caliper and support to prevent putting any strain on flexi brake hose.


Remove brake pads from caliper. The inner pad is held into piston by spring clips fixed to rear of pad the outer pad rests in caliper mounting bracket.


Remove caliper retaining bracket, two 15mm headed bolts. Quite tight as secured with thread lock.


Now you are free to remove disc, remove locating clip first. I use side cutters to remove and then discard clip as wheel bolts secure disc firmly to hub. The clip is only used as a retainer during manufacture so a good way of telling if your discs have been replaced before.


Getting technical now! Big hammer and hit off disc it will probably be tight. Take care not to hit ABS sensor and watch your eyes/wear goggles as lots of flying rust pieces etc. Wire brush and use emery to clean hub flange and copper grease between mating surface of hub and disc. Clean hub flange and copper grease between mating surface of hub and disc.


Clean caliper retaining bracket and copper slip where pads slide/locate.


Refit caliper retaining bracket, there is a torque setting for the bolts and is probably the same as the old Granada but I just tighten them up TIGHT! With thread lock on threads.


Fit pads into caliper making sure you fit the outer pad the right way round! (Abrasive surface to disc!)…It has been done before!!!


Refit caliper back onto caliper bracket clean and lubricate (copper grease) 7mm Allen key studs.


And tighten using 7mm Allen Key


Refit anti rattle clip a bit awkward two hands and watch your fingers!


Job done. I have never used the correct torque settings for any of the brake retaining bolts but there are specified settings so if you are in any doubt then obtain the correct figures. However I always torque the road wheelnuts with vehicle weight on ground (85N/M). This is most important as over tightening roadwheels can lead to disc distortion. The job in total should take about an hour. Obviously if you only wish to renew the pads then you will not need to remove the caliper retaining bracket or the disc.

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